yyR^im 





Glass 
Book 



4-^ 






STARK'S 

ILLUSTRATED 

BERMUDA GUIDE; 



CONTAINING 



A DESCRIPTION OF EVERYTHING ON OR ABOUT THESE PLACES 

OF WHICH THE VISITOR OR RESIDENT MAY 

DESIRE INFORMATION, 



INCLUDING THEIR 



HISTORY, INHABITANTS, CLIMATE, AGRICUL- 
TURE, GEOLOGY, GOVERNMENT 
AND RESOURCES. 



jfullp HUustrateb 

WITH MAPS, ENGRAVINGS AND PHOTO-PRINTS. 



BY 

JAMES H. STARK 



BOSTON 

JAMES H. STARK, PUBLISHER 

17 Milk Street 

LONDON 

SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, Limited 

B E R IM U D A 

S. NELMS 



Ff6 3/ 



902 



:OPYRIGHT, 1902, BY JAMES H. STARKo 



x1 



3^-/6<^^ 



Iplfmpton lprc03 

M. PLIMPTON &. CO., PRINTERS cS. BINDERS, 
NORWOOD, MASS-, U.S.A. 



PREFACE 



In presenting this Guide Book to the public the 
compiler has been actuated by the desire of intro- 
ducing to the notice of those unacquainted with the 
Bermuda Islands, some of the many attractions to be 
found there, how to reach the islands, their resource."- 
and productions ; the best houses of entertainmeni 
for those seeking a quiet, winter home ; a brief 
history of the discovery and settlement of the is- 
lands ; the manners and customs of the inhabitants , 
and a complete index and guide to all points of 
interest in Bermuda. 

Every work that it was possible to obtain on this 
subject has been consulted, and the information con- 
tained therein embodied in this work, much of the 
matter is compiled from such authorities as Smith's 
"General Historic of Virginia, New England and 
the Summer lies ;" "Memorials of the Discovery and 
Early Settlement of the Bermudas," by Sir J. H. 
Lefroy; "Bermuda, Past and Present," by John 
Ogilvy ; "The Visitor's Guide to Bermuda," by J. 
Matthew Jones; "The Bermuda Almanack," and 
many other works too numerous to mendon. 

This work is not intended as a history, although 
it contains several valuable articles that will be found 
of great historical interest and value. 



Vl PREFACE. 

The author was led to publish this work, after his 
return from a brief visit to Bermuda, during the 
winter season, and although he had seen many 
lovely spots in his travels, yet the glorious beauty 
of these islands was a revelation to him. The many 
hills clothed in perpetual verdure, set in a trans- 
parent sea, the great profusion of flowers, and, as 
far as the eye could reach, one stretch of unbroken 
bloom and verdure were unsurpassed. Here rose the 
tall shaft of a stately palm, there the spreading fans 
of the palmetto, and the slender spires of the sway- 
ing bamboo, with many other tropical trees and 
shrubs. Now you drive over a hard smooth road, 
winding through the most picturesque scenery, and 
every new view that bursts upon you is a surprise. 
It is needless to say more, only that the writer hopes 
to visit Bermuda again, the quiet restful life, the 
wondrous beauty of a land so different to the one we 
northerners inhabit, all make such a welcome 
change from our busy life at home. 




^'Jov^/nA^fyi 




ILLUSTRATIONS. 



St. George's Market-Place .... 
Map showing Location of Bermuda . 

Front Street 

United States Consulate 

Hamilton Hotel 

Sir George Somers, Portrait 
Screw Palm, St. George's Park 

Paw-Paw Tree 

Hog Money 

Ancient Map of Bermuda .... 

Two Natives 

Date Palm 

Lily Garden 

Group of Bamboos, i\.dmirars Grounds 

Bermuda Residence 

Governor's Residence 

Ruins of Trinity Church 

Great Floating Dock 

Geological Map of Bermuda 
Chimney of Buried House .... 

North Rock 

Convolvulus Cave 

Plan of Hamilton 

India Rubber Tree 

Hamilton 

Cedar Avenue 

vii 



Frontispiece 



Faci 



?P' 



3 
4 
5 
6 

14 
i8 

20 
21 
24 
28 

36 

40 
50 
60 

64 

68 
73 
79 
81 
82 

85 
88 
90 
90 
92 



Vlll 



ILL USTRA TIONS. 



Gru-Gru Palms 

Paw-Paw Trees, Clarence Hill . . . . 

Mangroves 

Ducking Stool 

Pembroke Church 

Flatt's Bridge 

Devil's Hole 

Cocoanut Palms 

Mullet Bay 

Town of St. George 

St. George's and Ordnance Island . . 
Spanish Rock — Inscription . . . . 

Devonshire Church 

Royal Palms 

Coral Stone Quarry 

Bermuda Yacht Undine 

Camping on Darrell's Island . . . . 
Yacht Race — Rounding the Stake Boat 

Bermudian Roadside View 

Shore View 

Map of Bermuda 



Faci 



Inside of back 



PAGE. 

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95 

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no 

114 

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136 

138 

140 

cover 



Stark's Illustrated 
BERMUDA GUIDE. 

CHAPTER T. 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

The singular collection of islands known as Ber- 
muda or the Bermudas, are situated about seven 
hundred miles from New York in a southeast direc- 
tion, and about the same distance from Florida, or 
from Bermuda to Cape Hatteras — the nearest 
land — the distance is 625 miles. 

Within forty-five hours' sail from New York it is 
hardly possible to find so complete a change in gov- 
ernment, climate, scenery and vegetation, as Ber- 
muda offers, and yet these islands are strangely 
unfamiliar to most well-informed Americans. 

Speaking our own language, having the same 
origin, with manners, which in many ways illus- 
trate those prevalent in New England a century 
ago, the people are bound to us by many natural 
ties, and it is only now that these islands, having 
come to the front as a winter resort, have led us 
to inquire into their history and resources. Settled 
in 1612, Virginia only of the English colonies 
outdating it, life in Bermuda has been as placid as 



2 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

its lovely waters on a summer day; no agitation of 
sufficient occurrence having occurred to attract the 
attention of the outside world, from which it is so 
absolutely isolated. 

For more than a quarter of a century the Quebec 
Steamship Company has maintained regular com- 
munications between New York and Bermuda. As 
the charming nature of the islands became known 
travel grew, and the size of the steamers and the 
frequency of their sailings have been increased, until 
now the service is performed by the highest class 
steamships every Wednesday and Saturday during 
the tourist season, making the voyage to Bermuda in 
forty-five hours, with but two nights at sea. The 
Oceana is 8,000 tons, and Bermudian 5,530 tons. 
These steamers are fitted with bilge keels to prevent 
rolling, and with a system of wireless telegraphy. 
The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company inaugu- 
rated a new service to Bermuda in 19 10. The 
steamship Orotava was placed on this line, sailing 
from New York every Wednesday. This vessel is 
6,000 tons and fitted with every modern convenience. 

The officers and men connected with these com- 
panies are kind and cou/teous, and passengers can 
depend on receiving the best of attention. 

The fare on both lines, including meals and state- 
room berths for the round trip, are from $30.00 to 
$100.00. Tickets are good to return for six months. 

Pickford and Black have a fortnightly service 
between Halifax, Bermuda, Caribbee Islands and 
Demerara. 




.'-' fey 






WATLINGS 
^ LONG 







MAP SHOWING THE LOCATION OP 

BERMIUDA 

ENGRAVED FOR 
STARK'S HISTORYAND GUIDE TO BERMUDA 



GUADALOUPE 1^ 

D0Mll^lCA1> 



Ot3C»» 



MARTINIQUE '••5i 
ST LUCIA^ 

BARBADOS& 



4 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

In addition to these vessels, the Elder Demp- 
ster steamers occasionally stop here on their way 
to Jamaica, and there are also direct steamers from 
London and other ports, and by these goods from 
England are usually and conveniently dispatched. A 
submarine telegraph connects Bermuda with Halifax 
and other connecting points. 

We sailed from New York in the month of Janu- 
ary in the Bermudian, and it was certainly a striking 
change in the scenes that our voyage of forty-eight 
hours brought to us. When we left New York, the 
ground white with snow and a raw northeast wind 
blowing, and on Sunday morning at sunrise we were 
floating on a glassy, tropic sea close to the islands. 
The negro pilot comes out and scrambles up on deck 
and we thread our way through the narrow passage 
between the coral reefs, skirting the whole length 
of the islands, to the opening into Hamilton harbor. 

The delight of reaching land is intensified by the 
beauties which are spread out on every hand. The 
wonderful transparency of the water, the numerous 
islands, making new pictures at every turn, the 
shifting light on the hills, the flowers, which almost 
hide the houses that peep out here and there from 
their bowers, make up a scene as rare as it is beauti- 
ful. The scenery presented was a strange combi- 
nation of tropic and northern aspects, dense woods 
of cedar cover all the islands, and at times one 
would be willing to stake their life they were sail- 
ing by the shores of Cape Ann or were in Casco 
Bay or at Mt. Desert, but the white gleam of the 
Spanish looking houses, the waving plumes of a 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 5 

palm here and there, and the transparent color of 
the water beneath would contradict the statement 
at every turn. Tropic, indeed, in one sense, these 
islands are. No frost ever visits them. The 
palm, banana, orange, lemon, paw-paw, India 
rubber tree, with a profusion of flowers and vines, 




U.S. CONSULATE, FRONT STREET. 



only seen in our northern greenhouses, flourish 
here. And so, making our way slowly through the 
labyrinth of islands, a sudden turn brings us into 
the pretty, land-locked harbor of Hamilton, which 
is the capital and principal town of Bermuda. 

The arrival of the steamer has been heralded b}- 
the customary signals — a flag from the Government 
house at Mt. Langton. The news has been tele- 
graphed all over the island, and the crowd of people 
on. the wharf indicates the interest attached to the 



6 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

arrival of the steamer. The majorit}^ of the people 
collected there are colored, with a sprinkling of 
men well-to-do and English in appearance, while 
the presence of the British soldier suggests the fact 
that this is one of England's strongholds. 

The steamer comes to just opposite Front street, 
which is the principal business street of the town. 
Along, shed-like structure, built of corrugated iron, 
stretches along the wharf, affording a comfortable 
shelter for men, boys and freight. The street is 
bordered by Pride-of-India trees, affording an 
agreeable shade on one side, while stores with ver- 
andas in front, unpretending in appearance, border 
the other side. The streets are hard, smooth, and 
white, made of the coral rock which abounds every- 
where and of which the islands are composed. 

There are several good hotels in the town, the 
best are the Hamilton and Princess ; they are equal 
to the average lirst-class summer hotels found in 
the States. 

The Hamilton was built and opened in 1852 by the 
Corporation of the town of Hamilton. It has been 
enlarged several times since it was built, the last 
additions being made in 1908 and 1909. It now has 
accommodations for 600 persons. It is owned by 
the Hamilton Hotel Co., composed principally of 
Bermudian merchants. 

The hotel is situated on a high hill overlooking 
the towm and commanding a view of the harbor and 
surrounding country. Long verandas stretch across 
the front from which one obtains delightful views of 
the hills beyond, clothed with cedar and dotted 
w^ith white houses. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 7 

The Hamilton Hotel is built of stone in a most 
substantial style, the sanitary arrangements are 
perfect, and in spite of the mildness of the weather 
there' is steam heat provided for the dining-rooms 
and halls, so that guests need suffer no inconveni- 
ence on the few rainy da3^s. Fireplaces are also to 
be found in the most desirable rooms. The grounds 
surrounding this fine house are elegantly laid out, 
and there is provision for all sorts of sport, includ- 
ing tennis and croquet. An orchestra plays daily 
during the season, giving morning concerts, be- 
sides providing the music for dancing in the even- 
ing. The house is open from December until May, 
and the building, cuisine and attendance are the 
best found in the West Indies and equal to those of 
other houses in less isolated portions of the world. 

The Princess was built in 1884, entirely of 
wood, and is the only wooden building of any size 
on the islands. It is situated on the shore of Ham- 
ilton Harbor, and has over 400 feet of broad piazza 
overlooking the harbor and surrounding country. 

It has every convenience for yachting, canoeing 
and sea bathing, and is but a few minutes walk from 
the city shops and churches, etc. Messrs. Howe & 
Tworoger are the proprietors. 

There are several other good hotels in town that 
are not so expensive as the Hamilton or Princess, 
such as the American House and the Hotel Imperial, 
both on Church street, nearly opposite the Hamilton, 
and the Windsor Hotel on Queen street, between the 
Hamilton and the steamship landing. 



8 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

The St. George Hotel is the principal hotel in 
the town of St. George. Parties visiting there 
will be delighted with the quaint old town. The hotel 
was only recently built and contains all the modern 
conveniences. Its position on the hill commands one 
of the finest views in Bermuda, the ocean, harbor, and 
inland scenery. 

There are a number of private boarding houses 
in Hamilton, one of the best is the Victoria Lodge, 
in the rear of the Hamilton House, fronting Vic- 
toria Park. 

The rates at the hotels are about the same as 
similar accommodation would cost in the States. 
From $3 to $4 per day in the larger hotels, and 
from $2 to $2.50 in the smaller ones, and lesser 
rates, if b}' the week or the season. 



CHAPTER II. 



HISTORY. 



The Bermudas were first discovered in 15 15 by a 
Spanish vessel, called La Gsltzs., on a voyage from 
Spain to Cuba, with a cargo of hogs, and com- 
manded by Juan Bermudez, and having on board 
Gonzalez Oviedo, the historian of the Indies, to 
whom we are indebted for the first account of these 
islands. They approached near to the islands and 
from the appearance of the place concluded that it 
was uninhabited. They resolved to send a boat 
ashore to make observations, and leave a few hogs 
which might breed and be afterwards useful. When, 
however, they were preparing to debark a strong 
contrary gale arose which obliged them to sheer off 
and be content with the view already obtained. The 
islands were named by the Spaniards indifferently. 
La Garza from the ship and Bermuda from the cap- 
tain, but the former term is long since disused. 

It does not appear that the Spaniards made any 
attempt to settle there, although Philip II. granted 
the islands to one Ferdinand Camelo, a Portuguese, 
who never improved his gift, beyond taking posses- 



10 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

sion by the form of landing in 1543, and carving on 
a prominent cliff on the southern shore of the island 
the initials of his name and the year, to which, in 
conformity with the practical zeal of the times, he 
superadded a cross, to protect his acquisition from 
the encroachments of roving heretics and the devil, 
for the stormy seas and dangerous reefs gave rise 
to so many disasters as to render the group exceed- 
ingly formidable in the eyes of the most experienced 
navigators. It was even invested in their imagina- 
tion with superstitious terrors, being considered as 
unapproachable by man, and given up in full domin- 
ion to the spirits of darkness. The Spaniards there- 
fore called them "Los Diabolos,"the Devil's Islands. 
These islands were first introduced to the notice of 
the English by a dreadful shipwreck. In 1591 Henry 
May sailed to the East Indies along with Captain 
Lancaster, on a buccaneering expedition. Having 
reached the coast of Sumatra and Malacca, they 
scoured the adjacent seas, and made some valuable 
captures. In 1593 they again doubled the Cape of 
Good Hope and returned to the West Indies for sup- 
plies which they much needed. They first came in 
sight of Trinidad but did not dare to approach a coast 
which was in possession of the Spaniards, and their 
distress became so great that it was with the utmost 
difficulty that the men could be prevented from leav- 
ing the ship. They shortly afterwards fell in with 
a French buccaneer commanded by La Barbotiere, 
who kindly relieved their wants by a gift of bread 
and provisions. Their stores were soon again 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 11 

exhausted, and, coming across the French ship the 
second time, application was made to the French 
captain for more supplies, but he declared that his 
own stock was so much reduced that he could spare 
but little, but the sailors persuaded themselves that 
the Frenchman's scarcity was feigned, and also 
that May, who conducted the negotiations, was re- 
gailing himself with good cheer on board without 
any trouble about their distress. Among these men, 
inured to bold and desperate deeds, a company was 
formed to seize the French pinnace, and then to cap- 
ture the large vessel with its aid. They succeeded 
in their first object, but the French captain, who ob- 
served their actions, sailed away at full speed, and 
May, who was dining with him on board at the time, 
requested that he might stay and return home on 
the vessel, so that he could inform his employers of 
the events of the voyage, and the unruly behavior 
of the crew. As they approached Bermuda, strict 
watch was kept while they supposed themselves to 
be near that dreaded spot, but when the pilot de- 
clared that they were twelve leagues south of it, 
they threw aside all care and gave themselves up to 
carousing. Amid their jollity, about midnight, the 
ship struck, with such violence that she immedi- 
ately filled and sank. They had only a small boat, 
to which they attached a hastily constructed raft to 
be towed along with it, room, however, was made for 
only twenty six while the crew exceeded fifty. In 
the wild and desperate struggle for existence thai 
ensued, May fortunately got into the boat. They had 



12 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

to beat about nearly all the next day, dragging the 
raft after them, and it was almost dark before they 
reached the shore ; they were tormented with thirst, 
and had nearly despaired of finding a drop of water 
when some was discovered in a rock where the rain 
waters had collected. 

The land was covered with one unbroken forest 
of cedar, here they would have to remain for life 
unless a vessel could be constructed. They made a 
voyage to the wreck and secured the shrouds, tack- 
les and carpenters' tools, and then began to cut 
down the cedars, with which they constructed a 
vessel of eighteen tons, for pitch they took lime, 
rendered adhesive by a mixture of turtle oil, and 
forced it into the seams, where it became hard as 
stone. 

During a residence of five months here May had 
observed that Bermuda, hitherto supposed to be a sin- 
gle island, was broken up into a number of islands of 
different sizes, enclosing many fine bays, and forming 
good harbors. The vessel being finished they set sail 
for Newfoundland, expecting to meet fishing vess*els 
there, on which they could obtain passage to Europe. 
On the nth of May they found themselves with joy 
clear of the islands ; they had a very favorable voy- 
age, and on the 20th arrived at Cape Breton. May 
arrived in England in August, 1594, where he gave 
a description of the islands ; he stated that they 
found hogs running wild all over the islands, which 
proves that this was not the first landing made 
there. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 13 

It was owing to a shipwreck that Bermuda again 
came under the view of the EngHsh, and that le( 
England to appropriate these islands. 

In 1609, during the most active period of the 
colonization of Virginia, an expedition of nine ships, 
commanded by Sir Thomas Gates, Sir George 
Somers and Captain Newport, bound for Virginia, 
was dispersed by a great storm. One of the ves- 
sels, the Sea Adventure, in which was Gates, Somers 
and Newport, seems to have been involved in the 
thickest of the tempest. The vessel sprung a leak, 
which it was found impossible to stop. All hands 
labored at the pumps for life, even the governor and 
admiral took their turns, and gentlemen who had 
never had an hour's hard work in their life toiled with 
the rest. The water continued to gain on them, and 
when about to give up in despair, * Sir George Som- 
ers, who had been watching at the poop day and 
night, cried out land, and there in the early dawn 
of morning could be seen the welcome sight of 
land. Fortunately they lighted on the only secure 
entrance through the reefs, the vessel was run 
ashore and wedged between two rocks, and thereby 
was preserved from sinking till by means of a boat 
and skiff the whole crew of one hundred and fifty, 
provisions, tackle and stores, reached the land. At 
that time the hogs still abounded, and these, with 

* The portrait of Admiral Sir George Somers is from a copy 
obtained bj General Sir J. H. Lefroy, (late Governor of Bermuda), 
from Miss Bellamy, of Plymouth, who inherited the original from 
her ancestor, Dr, Bel 'amy, M-D.. who was connected with the 
Somers family. 




SIR GEORGE SOMERS 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 15 

the turtle, birds and fish which they caught, afford- 
ed excellent food for the castaways. The Isle 
of Devils, Sir George Somers and party found 
'*the richest, healthfulest and pleasantest" they 
ever saw. 

Robert Walsingham and Henry Shelly discov- 
ered two bays abounding in excellent fish: these 
bays are still called by their names. Gates and 
Somers caused the long boat to be decked over and 
sent Raven, the mate, with eight men, to Virginia to 
bring assistance to them, but nothing was ever heard 
of them afterwards, and after waiting six months all 
hopes were then given up. The chiefs of the expe- 
dition then determined to build two vessels of cedar, 
one of eighty tons and one of thirty. Their utmost 
exertions, however, did not prevent disturbances, 
which nearly baffled the enterprise, these were 
fomented by persons noted for their religious zeal, 
of puritan principles and the accompanying spirit 
of independence. They represented that the recent 
disaster had dissolved the authority of the governor, 
and their business was now to provide, as they best 
could, for themselves and their families. They had 
come out in search of an easy and plentiful subsis- 
tance, which could no where be found in greater 
perfection and security than here, while in Virginia 
its attainment was not only doubtful, but attended 
with many hardships. These arguments were so 
convincing with the larger number of the men that, 
had it rested with them, they would have lived and 
died on the islands 



16 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

Two successive conspiracies were formed by 
large parties to separate from the rest, and form a 
colony. Both were defeated by the vigilance of 
Gates, who allowed the ringleaders to escape with 
a slight punishment. This lenity only emboldened 
the malcontents and a third plot was formed to 
seize the stores and take entire possession of the 
islands. It was determined to make an example 
of one of the leaders named Payne ; he was con- 
demned to be hanged, but, on the plea of being a 
gentleman, his sentence was commuted into that of 
being shot, which was immediately done. This had 
a salutary effect, and prevented any further trouble. 

Two children, a boy and girl, were born during 
this period, the former was christened Bermudas 
and the latter Bermuda, they were probably the 
first human beings born on these islands. 

Before leaving the islands. Gates caused a cross 
to be made of the wood saved from the wreck of 
his ship, which he secured to a large cedar, a silver 
coin with the king's head was placed in the middle 
of it, together with an inscription on a copper plate 
describing what had happened. — That the cross 
was the remains of a ship of 300 tons, called the 
Sea Venture, bound wath eight more to Virginia; 
that she contained two knights, Sir Thomas Gates, 
governor of the colony and Sir George Summers, 
admiral of the seas, who, together with her captain, 
Christopher Newport, and 150 mariners and pas- 
sengers besides, had got safe ashore, when she was 
lost 28 July, 1609. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 17 

On the loth of May, 1610, they sailed with a 
fair wind, and, before reaching the open sea, they 
struck on a rock and were nearly wrecked the 
second time. On the 23d they arrived safely at 
Jamestown. This settlement they found in a most 
destitute condition on their arrival, and it was de- 
termined to abandon the place, but Sir George 
Somers " whose noble mind ever regarded the gen- 
eral good more than his own ends," offered to un- 
dertake a voyage to the Bermudas for the purpose 
of forming a settlement, from which supplies might 
be obtained for the Jamestown colony. He accord- 
ingly sailed June 19th, in his cedar vessel, and his 
name was then given to the islands, though Ber- 
muda has since prevaled. 

Contrary winds and storms carried him to the 
northward, to the vicinity of Cape Cod. Somers 
persevered and reached the islands, but age, anxi- 
ety and exertion contributed to produce his end. 
Perceiving the approach of death, he exhorted his 
companions to continue their exertions for the bene- 
fit of the plantations, and to return to Virginia. 
Alarmed at the untimely fate of their leader, the 
colonists embalmed his body, and, disregarding his 
dying injunction, sailed for England. Three only 
of the men volunteered to remain, and for some time 
after their companions left they continued to cultivate 
the soil, but unfortunately they found some ambergris, 
and they fell into innumerable quarrels respecting its 
possession. They at length resolved to build a 
boat and sail for Newfoundland with their prize, 



18 STARK- S ILLUSTRATED 

but, happily for them, they were prevented by the 
arrival of a ship from Europe. An extraordinary 
interest was excited in England, by the relation of 
Captain Mathew Somers, the nephew and heir of 
Sir George. The usual exaggerations were pub- 
lished, and pubHc impressions were heightened by 
contrast with the dark ideas formerly prevalent 
concerning these islands. A charter was obtained 
of King James I., and one hundred and twenty gen- 
tlemen detached themselves from the Virginia com- 
pany, and formed a company under the name and 
style of the Governor and Company of the City of 
London, for the plantation of the Somer Islands. 

On the 28th of April, 161 2, the first ship was sent 
out with sixty emigrants, under the charge of Rich- 
ard Moore, who was appointed the governor of the 
colony. They met the boat containing the three 
men left on the island, who were overjoyed at see- 
ing the ship, and conducted her into the harbor. 
It was not long before intelligence of the discovery 
of the ambergris reached the governor, he promptly 
deprived the three men of it. One of them named 
Chard, who denied all knowledge of it, and caused 
considerable disturbance, which at one time seemed 
likely to result in a sanguinary encounter, was 
condemned to be hanged, and was only reprieved 
when on the ladder. 

The governor now applied himself actively to his 
duties. He had originally landed on Smithes Islands, 
but he soon removed to the spot where St. George's 
now stands, and built the town which was named 




Screw Paois, St. George's Park. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 19 

after Sir George Somers, and which became, and 
remained for two centuries, the capital of Bermuda. 
He laid the foundation of eight or nine forts, for 
the defence of the harbor, and also trained the men 
to arms, in order that they might defend the infant 
colony from attack. This proved necessary, for, in 
1 614, two Spanish ships attempted to enter the har- 
bor ; the forts were promptly manned and two shots 
fired at the enemy, who, finding them better pre- 
pared than they imagined, bore away. 

Before the close of 1615, six vessels had arrived 
with three hundred and forty passengers, among 
whom were a marshall and one Bartlett, who was 
sent out expressly to divide the colony into tribes or 
shares, but the governor finding no mention of any 
shares for himself, and the persons with him, as 
had been agreed on, forbade his proceeding with 
his survey. The survey was afterward made by 
Richard Norwood, which divided the land into 
tribes, now parishes ; these shares form the founda- 
tion of the land tenure of the islands even to this 
day, the divisional lines in many cases yet re- 
maining intact. Moore, whose time had expired, 
went back to England, in 161 5, leaving the ad- 
ministration of the government to six persons, who 
were to rule, each in turn, one month. They pro- 
ceeded to elect by lot their first ruler, the choice 
falling upon Charles Caldicot, who then went, with 
a crew of thirty-two men, in a vessel to the 
West Indies, for the purpose of procuring plants, 
goats and young cattle for the islands. The vessel 



20 STAAWy'S ILLUSTRATED 

was wrecked there, and the crew were indebted to 
an English pirate for being rescued from a des- 
ert island on which they had been cast. 

For a time the colony was torn by contention and 
discord, as well as by scarcity of food ; the news 
of these dissentions having reached England, the 
company sent out Daniel Tucker, as governor. 
Tucker was a stern, hard master, and he en- 
forced vigorous measures to compel the people to 
work for the Company. The provisions and stores 
he issued in certain quantities, and paid each la- 
borer a stated sum in brass coin, struck by the 
proprietor, for the purpose, having a hog on one 
side in commemoration of the abundance of those 
animals, found by the first settlers, and on the re- 
verse a ship. Pieces of this curious hog money, as 
it is called, is frequently found, and it brings a 
high price. 

Shortly after Governor Tucker arrived, he sent 
to the West Indies for plants and fruit-trees, the 
vessel returned with figs, pineapples, sugar-cane, 
plantin and paw-paw, which were all planted and 
rapidly multiplied. This vessel also brought the 
first slaves into the colony, an Indian and a Negro. 

The compan)^ dispatched a small bark called 
the Hopewell, with supplies for the colony, under 
the command of Captain Powell. On his way he 
met a Portuguese vessel homeward bound from 
Brazil, with a cargo of sugar, and, as Smith adds, 
"liked the sugar and passengers so well " he made 
a prize of her. Fearing to face Governor Tucker 




Paw-Paw Trek. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 



21 



after this piratical act, he directed his course to 
the West Indies. On his arrival there he met a 
French pirate, who pretended to have a w^arm re- 




HOG MONEY. 



gard for him, and invited him, with his officers, to 
an entertainment. Suspecting nothing, he accepted 
the invitation, but no sooner had they been well 
seated at table, than the}^ were all seized, and 
threatened with instant death, unless they surren- 
dered their prize. This, Powell was, of course, 
compelled to do, and finding his provisions failing 



22 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

him, he put the Portuguese crew on shore, and 
sailed for Bermuda, where he managed to ex- 
cuse himself to the governor. Powell again went 
to the West Indies pirating, and, in May, he ar- 
rived with three prizes laden with meal, hides and 
ammunition. Tucker received him kindly and 
treated him with consideration, until he had the 
goods in his own possession, when he reproached 
the captain with his piratical conduct, and called him 
to account for his proceedings. The unlucky 
buccaneer was, in the end, glad to escape to Eng- 
land, leaving his prizes in the hands of the gov- 
ernor. 

The discipline and hard labor required of the 
people reduced them to a condition but little bet- 
ter than that of slaves, and caused many to make 
desperate efforts to escape from the islands. Five 
persons, neither of whom were sailors, built a fish- 
ing boat for the governor, and when completed they 
borrowed a compass from their preacher, for whom 
they left a farewell epistle. In this they reminded 
him how often he had exhorted them to patience 
under ill-treatment, and had told them how Provi- 
dence would pay them, if man did not. They 
trusted, therefore, that he would now practice what 
he had so often preached. 

These brave men endured great hardships, in 
their boat of three tons, during their rash voyage, 
but at the end of about forty-two days they arrived 
at Ireland, where their exploit was considered so 
wonderful that the Earl o\ Thomond caused them 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 23 

to be received and entertained, and hung up their 
boat as a monument of this extraordinary voyage. 
The governor was greatly exasperated at their es- 
cape, 'and threatened to hang the whole of them if 
they returned. 

Another party of three, one of whom was a lady, 
attempted in a like manner to reach Virginia, but 
were never afterwards heard of. Six others were 
discovered, before they effected their departure, 
and one was executed. John Wood, who was 
found guilty of speaking " many distasteful and 
mutinous speeches against the Governor," was also 
condemned and executed. 

As there were at that time only about 500 in- 
habitants on these islands, it would appear from 
Captain Smith's History, that Tucker hanged a 
good percentage of them. Many were the com- 
plaints that were forwarded to England concern- 
ing the tyrannical government of Tucker, and he, 
fearing to be recalled, at last returned to England 
of his own accord, having appointed a person 
named Kendall, as his deputy. 

Kendall was disposed to be attentive to his office, 
but wanted energy, and the company took an earl}^ 
opportunity to relieve him ; this was not very agree- 
able to the people, but they did not offer any resis- 
tance. 

Governor Butler arrived with four ships and five 
hundred men, on the 20th October, 161 9, which raised 
the number of the colonists to 1000, and at his de- 
parture three years later, it had increased to 1500. 



24 STACK'S ILLUSTRATED 

On the 1st of August, 1620, in conformity with 
instructions sent out by the company, the governor 
summoned the first general assembly at St. George^s 
for the dispatch of public business. It consisted 01 
the governor, council, bailiffs, burgesses, secretary 
and clerk. It appears that they all sat in one house, 
which was probably the *' State House" show on 
Smith's engraving. Most of the Acts passed on this 
occasion were creditable to the new legislators. 

Governor Butler, as Moore had done before him, 
turned his chief attention to the building of forts 
and mafjazines, he also finished the cedar church 
at St. George's, and caused the assembly to pass 
an act for the building of three bridges, and then 
initiated the useful project of connecting together 
the principal islands. When Governor Butler re- 
turned to England, he left the islands in a greatl}' 
improved condition. But in his time also, there was 
such frequent mutinies and discontent, that at last 
"he longed for deliverance from his thankless and 
troublesome employment." It was probably during 
Governor Butler's administration that * Captain John 
Smith had a map and illustrations of the Summer Isle 
made, for in it we find the three bridges, numerous 
well-constructed forts and the State House at 



♦Captain John Smith was never in Bermuda, he derived all his 
information from his opportunities as a member of the Virginia 
Companj', and from correspondence or personal narratives of 
returned planters. This was his habitual way, as is shown by 
the number of authorities that he quotes. He probably obtained 
the sketches from which these illustrations were made from 
Richard Norwood. 



S Cathenns 
orte 

F 




BERMUDA GUIDE. 25 

St. George's. The map and illustrations were 
published in *' Smith's General Historie of Virginia, 
New England and the Summer lis" 1624 ; they are 
of the greatest value and importance, as they show 
accurately the class of buildings and forts erected on 
these islands at that early period ; such details even 
are entered into as the showing of the stocks in the 
market place of St. George's and the architecture and 
the substantial manner in which the buildings were 
constructed is remarkable, especially so when it is 
considered that previous to 1620 the Puritans had not 
settled at Plymouth, and it was ten years from that 
date before the settlement of Boston ; in fact, with 
the exception of Jamestown in Virginia, the Eng- 
lish had not secured a foot-hold in North America 
at the time these buildings and forts were con- 
structed. There are very few copies of this rare 
print in existance, even in Smith's history it is usu- 
ally found wanting, and it was only after consider- 
able trouble and expense that the writer succeeded 
in obtaining a reproduction of it. 

The early history of Bermuda is in many impor- 
tant points similar to that of New England. Like 
motives had in most instances induced emigration, 
and the distinguished characteristics of those people 
were repeated here. 

Like the Salem and Boston colonists, they had 
their witchcraft delusions, anticipating that, how- 
ever, some twenty years, Christian North was tried 
for it in 1668, but was acquited. Somewhat later a 
negro woman, Sarah Basset, was burned at Paget, 



26 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

for the same offence. The Quakers were perse- 
cuted, by fines, imprisonment, and banishment, by 
the stern and dark-souled Puritans, who had emi- 
grated to this place to escape oppression, and to en- 
joy religious toleration, but were not willing to 
grant to others, that differed from them in their re- 
ligious belief, the same privileges as they them- 
selves enjoyed. 

The Company discovered by degrees that the 
Bermudas were not the Eldorado which they 
had fondly imagined them to be. The colonists 
were now numerous, and every day showed a strong 
disposition to break away from the control of the 
Company. The Company had issued an order for- 
bidding the inhabitants to receive any ships but 
such as were commissioned by them. The Com- 
pany complained against the quality of tobacco 
shipped to London, as well as the quantity. 

The people were forbidden to cut cedar without a 
special license, and as they were in the habit of ex- 
porting oranges, in chests made of this wood, the 
regulation operated very materially to the injury of 
the place. Previous to this order, many homeward 
bound West Indiamen arrived at Castle Harbor, 
to load with this fruit for the English market. 
Whaling was claimed as an exclusive privilege, 
and was conducted for the sole benefit of the 
proprietors. Numerous attempts were made to 
boil sugar, but the Company directed the Governor 
to prevent it, as it would require too much wood 
for fuel. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 27 

In consequence of instructions from England, 
Governor Turner called upon all the inhabitants of 
the islands to take the oath of supremacy and alle- 
giance to His Majesty, but, as the Puritans had left 
their native country on account of their republican 
sentiments, they refused to comply, and the prisons 
were soon filled to overflowing. 

The rapid change of aff'airs in England, during 
the civil war, in which the Puritans were victor- 
ious, and Cromwell was elevated to the Protec- 
torship, opened the doors of the prisons, and 
stopped all futher persecutions, both political and 
religious. 

It must be said in favor of the Company, that 
they had, at an early period, established schools 
throughout the colony, and appropriated lands, in 
most of the tribes or parishes, for the maintainance 
of the teachers. 

From 1630 to 1660 many negro and Indian 
slaves were brought to the colony. The negroes 
from Africa and the West Indies, and a large num- 
ber of Indians from Massachusetts, prisoners taken 
in the Pequot and King Phillip's wars. The traces 
of their Indian ancestry can readily be seen in 
many of the colored people of these islands at the 
present time. 

In October, 1661, the Protestant inhabitants were 
alarmed by rumors of a proposed combination be- 
tween the Negroes and the Irish. The plan was to 
arm themselves, and massacre the whites who were 
not Catholics. Fortunately the plot w^as discovered 



28 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

in time, and measures adopted to disarm the slaves 
and the disaffected. 

The proprietary form of government continued 
until 1685, with a long succession of good, bad and 
indifferent governors. 

Many acts of piracy were perpetrated, at differ- 
ent times, by the inhabitants of these islands. In 
1665 Captain John Wentworth made a descent up- 
on the island of Tortola, and brought off about 
ninety slaves, the property of the governor of the 
place. Governor Seymour received a letter from 
him in which he stated that, "upon the 9th day of 
July, tliere came hither against me a pirate or sea 
robber, named John Wentworth, the which overrun 
my lands, and that against the will of mine owne 
inhabits, and shewed himself a tyrant, in robbing 
and firing, and took my negroes from my Isle, be- 
longing to no man but myself. And likewise I doe 
understand, that this said John Wentworth, a sea 
robber, is an indweller with you, soe I desire that 
you w^ould punish this rogue, according to your 
good law. I desire you, soe soon as you have this 
truth of mine, if you don't of yourself, restore all 
my negroes againe, whereof, I shall stay here three 
months, and in default of this, soe be assured, that 
wee shall speake together very shortly, and then I 
shall be my owne judge." 

This threatening letter caused great consternation, 
and immediately steps were taken to place the col- 
ony in the best posture for defense, reliance being 
had on the impregnability of the islands, instead of 



♦-4 
o 

> 

< 




BERMUDA GUIDE. 29 

delivering up the plunder, especially, as Captain 
Wentworth held a commission from the governor 
and council, and acted under their instructions. 

Isaac Richier, who became governor of the col- 
ony in 1691, was another celebrated freebooter. 
The account of his reign reads like a romance. The 
love of gold, and the determination to possess it, 
was the one idea of his statesmanship. He was a 
pirate at sea, and a brigand on land. Nevertheless 
it does not appear that any of his misdeeds, such 
as hanging innocent people, and robbing British 
ships, as well as others, led to his recall, or caused 
any degree of indignation, which such conduct usu- 
ally arouses. The fact appears to be, that, al- 
though Governor Richier was a bold, bad man, yet 
few of his subjects were entitled to throw the first 
stone at his excellency. 

Benjamin Bennett became governor of the col- 
ony in 1 701. At this time the Bahama Islands had 
become a rendezvous for pirates, and a few years 
later, King George the First issued a proclamation 
for their dislodgement. Governor Bennett accord- 
ingly dispatched a sloop, ordering the marauders 
to surrender. Those who were on shore, on his 
arrival, gladly accepted the opportunity to escape, 
and declared that they did not doubt but that their 
companions, who were at sea, would follow their ex- 
ample. Captain Henry Jennings, and fifteen others, 
sailed for Bermuda, and were soon followed by four 
other captains, Leslie, Nichols, Hornigold and Bur- 
ges, with one hundred men, who all surrendered. 



30 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

In 1710, the Spaniards made a descent on Turks 
Island, which had been settled by the Bermudians, 
for the purpose of gathering salt, and took posses- 
sion of the island making prisoners of the people. 
The Bermudians, at their own expense and own ac- 
cord, dispatched a force under Captain Lewis Mid- 
dleton, to regain possession of the Bahamas Cays. 
The expedition was successful, and a victory 
gained over the Spaniards, and they were driven 
from the islands ; they still, however, continued 
to make predatory attacks on the salt-rakers 
at the ponds, and on the vessels going for 
and carrying away salt. To repel these ag- 
gressions and afford security to their trade, the 
Bermudians went to the expense of arming their 
vessels. 



CHAPTER III. 

BERMUDA DURING THE AMERICAN REVO- 
LUTION. 

The history of Bermuda during the war of the 
colonies and the mother country contains much 
matter that is of interest to Americans. 

In 1775 the discontent in the American provinces 
had broken out into open opposition to the crown, 
and the people were forbidden to trade with their 
late fellow subjects. Bermuda suffered great want 
in consequence, for at this period, instead of export- 
ing provisions, the islands had become dependent 
on the continent for the means of subsistence. This, 
together with the fact that many of the people pos- 
sessed near relatives engaged in the struggle with 
the Crown, tended to destroy good feelings towards 
the British Government, these circumstances must 
be considered in order to judge fairly of the 
following transaction which has always been re- 
garded to have cast a stain upon the patriotism and 
loyalty of the Bermudians. 



32 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

At the outbreak of the American revolution, two 
battles were fought in the vicinity of Boston, Lex- 
ington and Bunker Hill, after which all intercourse 
with the surrounding country ceased, and Boston was 
reduced to a state of seige. Civil war commenced in 
all its horrors, the sundering of social ties, the 
burning of peaceful homes, the butchery of kindred 
and friends. 

Washington was appointed, by the Continental 
Congress, commander in chief of the American 
forces, and on July 3, 1775, two weeks a&er the bat- 
tle of Bunker Hill, he took formal command of the 
army at Cambridge. In a letter to the president ot 
Congress notifying him of his safe arrival there, he 
made the following statement. *'Upon the article 
of ammunition, I must reecho the former complaints 
on this subject. We are so exceedingly destitute 
that our artillery will be of little use, without a sup- 
ply both large and seasonable. What we have 
must be reserved for the small arms, and that well 
managed with the utmost frugality." A few weeks 
later General Washington wrote the following let- 
ter on the same subject. * 

TO GOVERNOR COOKE, OF RHODE ISLAND. 

Camp at Cambridge, 4 August, 1775. 

Sir, 

******** 

I am now. Sir, in strict confidence, to acquaint 

you, that our necessities in the articles of powder 



♦Writings of George Washington, by J. Sparks, vol. iii. 
page 47. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 33 

and lead are so great, as to require an immediate 
supply. I must earnestly entreat, that you will fall 
upon some measure to forward every pound of each 
in your colony, that can possibly be spared. It is 
not within the propriety or safety of such a corre- 
spondence to say what I might on this subject. It 
is sufficient, that the case calls loudly for the most 
strenuous exertions of every friend of his country, 
and does not admit of the least delay. No quantity, 
however small, is beneath notice, and, should any 
arrive, I beg it may be forwarded as soon as pos- 
sible. 

But a supply of this kind is so precarious, not 
only from the danger of the enemy, but the oppor- 
tunity of purchasing, that I have reyolved in my 
mind every other possible chance, and listened to 
every proposition on the subject, which could give 
the smallest hope. Among others, I have had one 
mentioned, which has some weight with me, as well 
as the general officers to whom I have proposed it. 
A Mr. Harris has lately come from Bermuda, where 
there is a very considerable magazine of powder in 
a remote part of the island ; and the inhabitants are 
well disposed not only to our cause in general, but 
to assist in this enterprise in particular. We under- 
stand there are two armed vessels in your province, 
commanded by men of known activity and spirit ; 
one of which, it is proposed to despatch on this 
errand with such assistance as may be requisite. 
Harris is to go along, as the conductor of the enter- 
prise, that we may avail ourselves of his knowledge 



34 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

of the island ; but without any command. I am 
very sensible, that at first view the project may ap- 
pear hazardous ; and its success must depend on 
the concurrence of many circumstances ; but we 
are in a situation, which requires us to run all risks. 
No danger is to be considered, when put in compe- 
tition with the rhagnitude of the cause, and the ab- 
solute necessity we are under of increasing our 
stock. Enterprises, which appear chimerical, often 
prove successful from that very circumstance. Com- 
mon sense and prudence will suggest vigilance and 
care, where the danger is plain and obvious ; but, 
where little danger is apprehended, the more the 
enemy will be unprepared ; and consequently there 
is the fairest prospect of success. 

Mr. Brown has been mentioned to me as a very 
proper person to be consulted upon this occasion. 
You will judge of the propriety of communicating 
it to him in part or the whole, and as soon as pos- 
sible favor me with your sentiments, and the steps 
you may have taken to forward it. If no immediate 
and safe opportunity offers, yon will please to do it 
by express. Should it be inconvenient to part with 
one of the armed vessels, perhaps some other might 
be fitted out, or you could devise some other mode 
of executing this plan ; so that, in case of a disap- 
pointment, the vessel might proceed to some other 
island to purchase. ******* 
I am, Sir, 
Your most obedient, humble servant, 

G. Washington. 



BERMUDA GUIDE, 35 

This plan was approved by the governor and com- 
mittee of Rhode Island, and Captain Abraham 
Whipple agreed to engage in the affair, provided 
General Washington would give him a certificate 
under his own hand, that in case the Bermudians 
would assist the undertaking, he would recommend 
to the Continental Congress to permit the exporta- 
tion of provisions to those islands from the colonies. 

General Washington accordingly sent the follow- 
ing address to the Bermudians. * 

TO THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND OF BERMUDA. 
Camp at Cambridge, 6 September, 1775. 

Gentlemen, 

In the great conflict, which agitates this conti- 
nent, I cannot doubt but the assertors of freedom 
and the rights of the constitution are possessed of 
your most favorable regards and wishes for success. 
As descendants of freemen, and heirs with us of the 
same glorious inheritance, we flatter ourselves, that, 
though divided by our situation, we are firmly 
united in sentiment. The cause of virtue and lib- 
erty is confined to no continent or climate. It com- 
prehends, within its capacious limits, the wise and 
good, however dispersed and separated in space or 
distance. 

You need not be informed, that the violence and ra- 
pacity of a tyrannic ministry have forced the citizens 
of America, your brother colonist, into arms. We 



♦Writings of George Washington, by J. Sparks, vol. iii. 
page 77. 



36 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

equally detest and lament the prevalence of those 
counsels, which have led to the effusion of so much 
human blood, and left us no alternative but a civil 
war, or a base submission. The wise Disposer of 
all events has hitherto smiled upon our virtuous 
efforts. Those mercenary troops, a few of whom 
lately boasted of subjugating this vast continent, 
have been checked in their earliest ravages, and are 
now actually encircled within a small space ; their 
arms disgraced, and themselves suffering all the 
calamities of a siege. The virtue, spirit, and union 
of the provinces leave them nothing to fear, but the 
want of ammunition. The application of our 
enemies to foreign states, and their vigilance upon 
our coasts, are the only efforts they have made 
against us with success. 

Under these circumstances, and with these senti- 
ments, we have turned our eyes to you, Gentlemen, 
for relief. We are informed, that there is a very 
large magazine in your island under a very feeble 
guard. We would not wish to involve you in an 
opposition, in which, from your situation, we should 
be unable to support you ; we knew not, therefore, 
to what extent to solicit your assistance, in availing 
ourselves of this supply ; but, if your favor and 
friendship to North America and its liberties have 
not been misrepresented, I persuade myself you 
may, consistently with your own safety, promote 
and further this scheme, so as to give it the fairest 
prospect of success. Be assured, that, in this case, 
the whole power and exertion of my influence will 




Date Palm. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 37 

be made with the honorable Continental Congress, 
that your island may not only be supplied with 
provisions, but experience every other mark of 
affection and friendship, which the grateful citizens 
of a free country can bestow on its brethren and 
benefactors.* I am, Gentlemen, 

With much esteem. 

Your humble servant, 

O 




Captain Whipple had scarcely sailed from Provi- 
dence before an account appeared in the newspapers 
of one hundred barrels of powder having been 
taken from Bermuda, by a vessel supposed to be 
from Philadelphia, and another from South Carolina. 
This was the same powder that Captain Whipple 
had gone to procure. 

When he reached Bermuda he put in at the 
West end of the island. The inhabitants were at 
first alarmed, supposing him to command a king's 
armed vessel, and the women and children fled 
from that vicinity, bur when he showed them his 
commission and instructions thev treated him with 

*This explains the following item in Governor Hutchinson's 
diary, the last Royal Governor ot" Massachusetts, while residing 
in London he made the following entry in his diary under date 
of October 29, 1779. "A vessel arrived from Boston which had 
been carried in there, but claimed as belonging to Bermuda, and 
the owners not enemies to the American states; and upon that 
claim discharged and suffered to come to England. . This is a 
very odd state of thinsfs." 



38 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

much cordiality and friendship, and informed him 
that they had assisted in removing the powder, which 
was made known to Gen. Gage, and he had sent a 
sloop of war to the island. They professed them- 
selves hearty friends to the American cause. Cap- 
tain Whipple being defeated in the object of his 
voyage returned to Providence. 

Soon after the inhabitants of Bermuda petitioned 
congress for relief, representing their great distress 
in consequence of being deprived of the supplies 
that usually came from the colonies. In considera- 
tion of their being friendly to the cause of America, 
it was resolved by congress that provisions in cer- 
tain quantities might be exported to them.* 

The powder procured from the Bermudians led 
to the first great victory gained by Washington in 
the revolutionary war, the evacuation of Boston by 
the British army. After the arrival of the powder, 
Washington caused numerous batteries to be erected 
m the immediate vicinity of the town. On the 
night of March 4th, 1776, Dorchester Heights 
were taken possession of and works erected there 
which commanded Boston, and the British Fleet 
lying at anchor in the harbor. This caused the 
town to be evacuated, and General Howe with his 
army and about one thousand loyalists went aboard 
of the fleet and sailed for Halifax, March 17th, 1776. 

Nothing could exceed the indignation of Gover- 
nor Bruere, when he received intelligence of the 

♦Journal of Congress, November 22d, 1775. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 39 

plundering of the magazine, he promptly called 
upon the legislature to take active measures for 
brmging the delinquents to justice. No evidence 
could 'ever be obtained, and the whole transaction 
is still enveloped in mystery. The governor let no 
opportunity escape him to accuse the Bermudians 
of disloyalty, and no doubt severe punishment 
would have been inflicted on the delinquents could 
they have been discovered. 

Two American brigs under republican colors ar- 
rived shortly after this and remained some weeks at 
the west end of the islands unmolested, and Gov- 
ernor Bruere complained bitterly of this to the 
assembly.* 

Governor George James Bruere died in 1780, and 
the administration devolved on the Hon. Thomas 
Jones, who was relieved by George Bruere as Lieu- 
tenant Governor, in October, 1780. 

Governor Bruere was soon openly at varience 
with the assembly, and did not hesitate to accuse 
the people of treason in supplying the revolted 
provinces with salt, exchanging it for provisions. 
Mr. Bruere, extremely exasperated at their trading, 
which he considered to be treasonable conduct, com- 
mented on it in his message to the assembly in no 
measured terms. Some intercepted correspond- 
ence with the rebels added fuel to the flame, and on 
the 15th of August, 1781, he addressed them in a 



* These were probably the vessels sent out from Rhode Island, 
under the command of Captain Whipple. 



40 STACK'S ILLUSTRATED 

speech which could not fail to be offensive, although 
it contained much sound argument. This was fol- 
lowed by a message more bitter and acrimonious, 
all of which the}^ treated with silent contempt until 
the 28th of September, when they discharged their 
wrath in an address, in which the governor was 
handled most roughly for his attacks on the inhab- 
itants of these islands. In return he addressed a 
message equally uncourteous in its tone, and dis- 
solved the house. 

The arrival of William Browne, whose adminis- 
tration commenced 4th January, 1782, put an end 
to Mr. Bruere'srule. 

The high character of the new governor had pre- 
ceeded him in the colony, and he was joyfully re- 
ceived on his arrival. He w^as a native of Salem, 
Massachusetts, and was high in office previous to 
the revolution, was colonel of the Essex regiment, 
judge of the Supreme Court, and Mandamus Coun- 
selor. After the passage of the Boston port bill, 
he was waited on by a committee of the Essex 
delegates, to inform him, that "it was with grief 
that the country had viewed his exertions for carry- 
ing into execution certain acts of parliament calcu- 
lated to enslave and ruin his native land, that while 
the country would continue the respect for several 
years paid him, it resolved to detach from every fu- 
ture connection all such as shall persist in support- 
ing or in any way countenancing the late arbitrary 
acts of Parliament, that the deligates in the 
name of the country request him to excuse them 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 41 

from the painful necessity of considering and treat- 
ing him as an enemy to his country, unless he re- 
signed his office as counselor and judge." Col. 
Browne replied as follows : 

*' As a judge and in every other capacity, I in- 
tend to act with honor and integrity and to exert my 
best abilities ; and be assured that neither persua- 
sion can allure me nor menaces compel me to do 
anything derogatory to the character of a counselor 
of his majesty's province of Massachusetts." — Wm. 
Browne. 

Col. Browne was esteemed among the most 
opulent and benevolent individuals of that province 
prior to the revolution : and so great was his popu- 
larity that the gubernatorial chair of Massachusetts 
was offered him by the *' committee of safety," as 
an inducement for him to remain and join the " sons 
of liberty." But he felt it a duty to adhere to govern- 
ment ; even at the expense of his great landed es- 
tate, both in Massachusetts and Connecticut, the 
latter comprising fourteen valuable farms, all oi 
which were afterwards confiscated. 

By prefering to remain on the side representing 
law and authority, and unwilling to adopt the course oi 
the revolutionists, this courtly representative of an 
ancient and honorable family, this sincere lover oi 
his country, this skillful man of affairs, this upright 
and merciful judge, once so beloved by his fellow 
townsmen, drew upon himself their wrath, and he 
fled from his native country never to return again. 
First he sought refuge in Boston in 1774, ^^^^ i^ 



42 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

Halifax, and from there he went to England in 
1776, where he remained till 1781, when he was ap- 
pointed governor of Bermuda, as a slight return 
for his great sacrifices and important services in be- 
half of the Crown. Col. Browne married his cousin, 
the daughter of Governor Wanton, of Rhode Is- 
land, and was doubly connected with the Winthrop 
family ; the wives of the elder Brown and Governor 
Wanton being daughters of John Winthrop, great 
grandson of the first governor of Massachusetts. 
Col. Browne's son William was an officer in the 
British service at the siege of Gibralter in 1784. 

Under the judicious management of Governor 
Browne, the colony continued to steadily flourish, 
he conducted the business of the colony in the great- 
est harmony with the different branches of the legis- 
lature. He found the financial affairs of the is- 
lands in a confused and ruinous state, and left them 
flourishing. In 1788 he left for England, deeply 
and sincerely regretted by the people, and was suc- 
ceeded by Henry Hamilton as Lieutenant Governor, 
during whose administration the town of Hamilton 
was built and named in compliment of him. 

Near the close of the American Revolution a 
plan was on foot to take Bermuda, in order to make 
it a '' a nest of hornets " for the annoyance of Brit- 
ish trade, but the war closed, and it was abandoned. 
It, however, proved a nest of hornets to the United 
States, during the late civil war. At that time St. 
George's was a busy town, and was one of the hot 
beds of secession. Being a great resort for block- 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 43 

ade runners, which were hospitably welcomed here, 
immense quantities of goods were purchased in 
England, and brought here on large ocean steam- 
ers, and then transferred to swift sailing blockade 
runners, waiting to receive it. These ran the 
blockade into Charleston, Wilmington and Sa- 
vannah. 

It was a risky business, but one that was well 
followed, and many made large fortunes there, dur- 
ing the first years of the war, but many were bank- 
rupt or nearly so, at its close. 

On June 28, 1901, the first shipment of Boer pris- 
oners arrived here from the Transval on the steamer 
''Armenian." They were placed on Darrell's, Tuck- 
er's, and Morgan's Islands in the Sound. The in- 
closures on the islands were made of barbed-wire 
fencing, inside of which the Boers were confined, and 
on the outside were stationed the guards, and about 
the islands were anchored three gunboats that during 
the night played powerful search-lights upon the 
shore so that no prisoner could escape under cover 
of darkness. Within six months after the arrival of 
the first lot there were upwards of 4,000 prisoners 
confined here, besides some fifty or more that had 
been sentenced to death for violating the rules of 
war, but whose sentences were afterwards commuted 
to life imprisonment at Bermuda. These convicts 
were confined in Fort Hamilton and other forts. 



CHAPTER IV. 

BERMUDA DURING THE BLOCKADE. 

Previous to the Southern Rebellion, Bermuda 
was comparatively unknown to the world, except 
as an important British naval station. No startling 
episode in the course of events had occurred for 
many years to disturb the tranquil repose of her 
many peaceful islands. Far out and alone in the 
broad Atlantic, like some beautiful recluse, she 
wooed the soft winds of summer, or bared her breast 
to the autumnal gales that wreathed her reefs and 
bald bluffs with foam. Monthly the packet passing 
to and fro between St. George's and Halifax, 
aroused her from her Rip Van Winkle sleep ; and 
when the few hour's bustle at the wharf had ceased, 
when the mail coach that ran from the hither point 
to the extremity of the islands had dispensed its 
favors alono^ the circuitous route, and the little 
budget of news and epistolary missives had been 
duly digested, she lapsed again into the quiet of 
her daily routine. Her small farmers cultivated 
arrowroot, tomatoes, onions, and potatoes to a 
limited extent only (for her negroes had grown 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 45 

negligent and thriftless under the license of their 
freedom,) and an occasional craft dropped into her 
landlocked bays to bear her vegetable tributes to 
the markets of the North. And when the people 
of colder climes ate, in the early spring time, of 
her early vegetables so acceptable because so out 
of season^ they thought kindly of Bermuda, and 
many an invalid went out to breathe the genial air 
of her winter months. 

But suddenly a new era dawned upon the islands. 
A marvellous change came over the sleepy realm ; 
the spell that bound the enchanted isle was broken. 
The war in America crowded her ports with ship- 
ping and awakened the echoes of busy trade and 
commerce, which frightened the hobgoblins from 
the caves which they had tenanted since Shakes- 
peare sang the tale of "vexed Bermoothes" two 
hundred and fifty years ago. The blockade of the 
southern ports threw into her lap rare treasures, to 
which her eyes had been unaccustomed before ; 
and often upon her deep, transparent waters were 
seen what looked like clots of foam, but which 
were really stray waifs of cotton floating — cotton 
worth two shillings sterling per pound. Ah, what 
golden harvests were reaped, what mighty risks 
were run for this same cotton in those old blockad- 
ing days ! It seemed as though wealth came down 
in showers upon Bermuda. It blessed all in any 
way connected with the blockade. It blessed the 
adventurers of high and low degree, who gathered 
there from the four quarters of the globe to specu- 



46 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

late upon the national misfortune ; it blessed the 
grasping Englishman, the northern renegade, and 
the mercenaries and sharpers of all colors and per- 
suasions alike. The employees of blockade-run- 
ners received fabulous wages — captains, $5,000 in 
gold per round trip, which never exceeded a month, 
and was sometimes made in a week ; pilots, $5,000 ; 
engineers, coal-heavers, and seamen, in proportion. 
The capitalists who invested in the venture seldom 
failed to make fortunes, notwithstanding the large 
percentage of steamers lost or captured ; for the 
gains were so immense that one successful voyage 
made up the loss of half a dozen failures. They 
fared sumptuously every day upon the profits which 
they sheared iVom the poverty and distress of those 
who bore the burden of the war. Their steamers 
were supplied with the luxuries of every clime. 
The cabin tables were spread with sparkling wines 
and choicest viands. The pinched Confederates, 
whom three lingering years of war had reduced to 
rags or homely homespun, looked with envious 
eyes upon the sleek, well-dressed, blockade-runners 
who sauntered through their streets at will, while 
they themselves were in constant dread of provost 
marshals and conscripting-officers. They gloated 
upon the glittering gold which strangers lavished 
and despised their own paper dollar which would 
hardly buy a row of pins. It seemed to the strug- 
gling South as if the steamers were the only link 
between their present world of despair and a realm 
of happiness beyond ; and when, at intervals, they 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 47 

Steamed swiftly up to its deserted ports, their ad- 
vent was always welcomed with delight. 

On such occasions there was some semblance in 
those same ports — of Charleston or Wilmington — 
of the commercial activity in the bygone days of 
peace. Negroes bustled about the wharves, and 
the incessant clatter of the donkey engines was 
heard, discharging freight which long-tailed drays 
carted leisurely away. However, excepting these 
and the seamen, only a few old men and youngsters 
of various hues sauntered about the spot. The 
streets were quite deserted, except by the provost 
guard, an occasional female in mourning garb, or 
a crippled soldier hobbling on his way. There 
was an oppressive sense of desolation everywhere, 
such as one feels in an old mill where the machin- 
ery, long since silenced, has gone to rust, with 
rank moss grown on the water-wheel, and the 
weather-worn roof opening to the sky. 

Such was the melancholy picture. At the 
steamers' offices, however, there was always some 
stir ; and when an auction sale of blockade goods 
was advertised, something of a crowd was collected. 
All the Jews swarmed there from far and near, like 
ffies around the bung of a sugar cask, wranghng 
with each other and scrambling for the prizes 
offered ; these worthies owed no allegiance, except 
to Moses, and consequently were exempt from mili- 
tary service. Large prices were paid in Confeder- 
ate scrip for coffee, medicines, shoes, and the rest; 
and with the proceeds the blockade-runners pur- 



48 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

chased the coveted cotton at $250 per bale. When 
the blockade business was at its climax, Confederate 
money was worth about $14 for $1 in gold ; and as 
the cotton brought from 45 to 50 cents per pound in 
Bermuda, the profit on a single bale was $230 ! 

Sometimes as many as a dozen steamers were in 
the port of Wilmington at once. In general they 
loaded leisurely, because they had to wait their 
opportunity. It was only when the night was 
moonless, and the tide full on the bar that they 
could hope to run the blockade with success. The 
"silvery moon" had no charm for blockade run- 
ners; rather, come storm and angry wrack of wind 
and waves. Occasionally, three or four would run 
out together, dividing the attention of the ever- 
vigilant blockading cruisers ; but as a rule, each 
attempted the perilous gauntlet alone. Often they 
failed upon the very threshold of their adventure, 
and the anxious owners on shore received early in- 
timation of their probable fate in the dull boom of 
guns that was wafted from Fort Fisher, thirty miles 
below. It was a bold act, worthy of brave men, to 
attempt that bristling cordon of Federal ships in an 
unarmed, inoffensive craft. Women often did it, 
too ; but women can be brave even when men's 
courage quails. 

We can imagine one of these long and rakish 
steamers lying in the stream opposite the cotton- 
sheds, where she has been loading ; a jaunty craft 
with graceful lines, appointments all complete, and 
color so like the dusk that at nightfall she seems 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 49 

like a doubtful shadow upon the water. The thin 
cloud of brown smoke that floats from her funnel, 
and the merry " Heave-yo " at the windlass, be- 
token that she is getting under way. Her flags are 
flaunting gayly — a Confederate at the stem, a 
British at the stern. There is a group of women 
and children on her quarter-deck, and, but for the 
long rows of cotton bales, that peer over her rails, 
one might imagine that she was engaged for a 
pleasure excursion down the river — only that it 
was not customary for officers in uniform to demand 
passports of mere excursionists. Male passengers 
are scarce, for the gates of the Confederacy are 
closed to such. Beside a couple of Jews, there are 
an invalid and a cripple ; also two nondescripts, 
whom the provost guard, the shippers, the negroes 
on shore, their fellow-passengers, and the examin- 
ing officers, have repeatedly passed opinion upon 
as to whether they were deserters, Yankee spies, 
correspondents of the London Z'^V/?^^, government 
officials, or agents of the government departing on 
secret service. However, they are both thoroughly 
*' papered," and no objection can be made. Their 
passports are from headquarters at Richmond, and 
duly vised by the commanding officer at Wil- 
mington. 

There is very little vivacity on board. A feeling 
of uncertainty pervades all. Friends part with 
tremulous hand-shakings. Those who command 
the craft know well the dangers that attend the 
voyage and the risk that hangs over their rich 



50 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

freight of half a million. Many a lady's bosom 
heaves with throbbing heart and breath suppressed, 
even while gliding securely past the ricefields, 
marshes, and belt of timber that girts the river bank. 
Wilmington gradually fades from view. The sun 
settles down upon the red horizon. An ironclad? 
struggling against the current, is passed and left 
astern. The steamer picks her way through tor- 
tuous channels, successive . obstructions of piles 
stretched across the river, and labyrinths of torpe- 
does, marked by flag-buoys. Down near the 
mouth of the river there is a battery, and from a 
cutter that has put out from shore a lieutenant, with 
his guard, clambers over the ship's side, to search 
for stowaways and examine passports again. 
Every nook and corner, every locker and pantry is 
searched this time. Even the hold and coal- 
bunkers are fumigated to smoke out any who per- 
chance may have concealed themselves there. 
When these trials have been endured, the steamer 
increases speed and proceeds on her course to the 
broad and placid sound that is sheltered by the bar. 
There she rests at anchor and awaits the protecting 
shades of night. Here there is no danger. The 
bristling guns of Fort Fisher and the Mound Bat- 
tery, and the shoal water on the bar afford double 
protection. The blockading fleet lies miles away 
outside. Perhaps from the masthead the outlines 
of one or two of them can be indistinctly traced — 
nothing more. 

As dusk falls, a little boat puts out from land. 




Group of Bamboo's Admiral's Grouxds. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 51 

This brings the indispensable pilot, who at once 
becomes grand master of the ship. Everything 
depends upon his skill, and implicit obedience to 
his directions. He has the path before him all 
mapped out, and can tell the number and latest 
position of every blockader off the adjacent coast. 
He has carefully noted the stage of water, marked 
the channel, set his signal lights, and arranged the 
indispensably preliminaries of the trip. At length 
the last glimmer of twilight has vanished. A per- 
ceptible haze gathers upon the ocean. Every light 
in the ship is carefully extinguished. The binnacle 
is enveloped with canvas. Telegraph lines are 
rigged fore and aft, to communicate from the pilot 
forward to the officer who directs the helmsman at 
the wheel. The lookouts, the captain and subor- 
dinate officers take their respective places. Pres- 
ently a deep sigh comes from the ponderous engine, 
and a tremor runs through the vessel as she gathers 
headway and snuffs the fresh breeze that comes 
from the ocean. Strictest silence is enjoined now. 
Not a whisper is heard. Even the plash of the 
patent paddle-wheels (never ver}^ noisy) is drowned 
by the monotonous sough of the breaking waves. 
The funnels emit no vapors or tell-tale sparks. 
The lights on shore change rapidly with the vary- 
irig course. A red lantern flashes for an instant to 
starboard and then goes out, just where a glimpse 
was caught of a cloaked figure seated in a skiff. 
A pale, white light gleams on the larboard side. 
A brighter one blazes from Fort Fisher in the dis- 



52 S TAJIK'S ILLUSTRATED 

tance. And thus the course is laid over the bar. 
The speed of the vessel increases as the hour of 
trial approaches, and the lights afloat and ashore 
flit and intermingle with a rapidity that confuses 
the senses. Presently the swash and long swell of 
the sea denote that the bar is passed, and the lights, 
now grown faint and spectral, seem to keep pace 
with the vessel as she lays her course along the 
coast. 

The novice sits aft with bated breath and his 
heart in his throat, a desperate grip upon some 
stanchion, and his eyes straining far out into the 
gloom, while, with a sinking sensation like being 
twirled in a swing, he is hurried through space at 
a speed of twenty miles an hour, over billows of 
phosphoresence that roll off into the wake behind. 
The silence is oppressive, and the suspense painful. 
But presently a new object of interest absorbs at- 
tention . Can you see nothing — there — just where 
the gleam of that brilliant star flashed on the foam? 
Pshaw ! 'tis mere fancy. The shadows always fall 
deepest where the dull gray of the ocean blends 
with the skv. It is the loom of the mist, nothing 
more. And yet there is something that flits like a 
shadow, moving as we move — an undefined nebula 
without shape or substance, ever attendant, like an 
incubus that oppresses one in dreams. Ha ! this is 
exciting ! What tension of taut-drawn nerves ! 
What if it should be one of them ! We are draw- 
ing a little ahead of the thing now. Surely it is a 
blockader, and one of the fleetest, too. Her scent 



BERMUDA GUIDE. ocJ 

is keen. These lights on shore betray us whenever 
we run between them and her. If we could only 
head her off now and stand out to sea ! But not 
3'et ! 'See! she burns a blue light — and how it 
streams over the waves ! And there goes a rocket I 
We can see her plainlj' enough now — as plainly 
as she can see us — and so near, just on our port 
bow ! We are lost beyond hope ; yet the ladies 
are calm and motionless, and the children are 
sleeping quietly below. Ha! there it comes — a 
shot. '*Take care!" There is a dazzling glare 
like a flash of sheet lightning, a deafening roar 
from the guns, and all is gloom again. The blue 
light has burned out. " Any one hurt? Were w^e 
struck?" "No." "All right; pitch in the rosin, 
engineer, and shove ahead ! Hard-a-starboard 
there at the helm ! " There is no occasion for fur- 
ther silence now. It is simply a question of supe- 
rior speed. The swift craft doubles on her track 
like a swallow, and stands directly out to sea. In 
ten minutes she is safe. Still, the engines do not 
cease their effort, but all night long she leaves the 
coast at swiftest speed, outward bound for Ber- 
muda. Vigilance is not relaxed. By day there 
are lookouts stationed aloft, and every craft like a 
steamer is carefully shunned ; at night, again, 
lights are out as before ; and so, day after day, un- 
til at length the tall beacon on Bermoothes flashes 
out its friendly blaze, the steamer runs in under the 
rocky shore, and the rattle of the cable over the 
bows tells that she is safely anchored in the road- 
stead. 



54 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

In the early morning, with a negro pilot on 
board, the vessel steams tortuously through narrow 
channels among picturesque islands — some bald 
and wave-worn, and others crowned with snowy 
cottages nestling in groves of cedar, with weather- 
stained ruins and grim martello towers from which 
great cannon bristle — and rounding a point abruptly, 
comes at once in full view of the romantic port of 
St. George's, with its crowded shipping, its white 
and yellow limestone houses, its tropical trees, 
with their great broad leaves, its many skiffs and 
row-boats passing to and fro, and the grand old 
hill behind, with its signal-station and frowning 
battery. There the blockade-runners had no fear 
of Federal cruisers, albeit their ports might yawn 
and cannon bristle within pistol range. 

At only one other spot on the globe could be 
seen in those days the same commercial features 
that made Bermuda attractive to those interested in 
keeping open the outlet for cotton. As at Nassau, 
so here, the attention of the stranger entering the 
harbor was at once attracted to the sharp and grace- 
ful outlines of the numerous lead-colored steamers 
that lay at anchor in the stream or moored along- 
side the wharves ; and among all the miscellaneous 
shipping, but two flags were conspicuous — the 
Cross of St. George and the Confederate flag, the 
one with its crimson field and the other with its 
field of snowy white. The Stars and Stripes were 
not numerous, for fear of Rebel cruisers had in- 
duced the Federal vessels to seek the protecting 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 55 

aegis of the British flag. On shore, long lines of 
cotton bales lay piled upon the wharves ; vessels 
bound to trans-Atlantic ports were busily loading 
with the precious staple ; gangs of stalwart blacks 
sweltered in the sun as they piled their cotton 
hooks. Then, if ever, the negroes of Bermuda 
had fallen upon "flush times." A crown was as 
easily earned as a shilling used to be. Boating 
seemed to be the favorite employment of both 
sexes. Fleets of skiffs and small craft of all de- 
scriptions thronged like bees around a newly ar- 
rived ship. Negroes of every size and hue clung 
to her sides and clambered up the rigging, anxious 
to earn a sixpence by putting passengers ashore. 
Ebony Venuses, in short frocks and palm-leaf hats 
with enormous brims, vied with greasy and dilapi- 
dated Sambos for customers. Six boats insisted 
upon carrying the same passengers. 

The passenger who was fortunate enough to run 
the gauntlet of this rivalry successfully, did not find 
St. George's an especially attractive place. The 
hot sun streams up from the dazzling white of its 
narrow^ limestone street and is reflected again from 
the walls on either side. Houses, neat and sub- 
stantial enough, but without architectural plan, are 
inconveniently placed in the path just where one 
wishes to go. Streets, lanes and alleys intersect 
each other in labyrinthian perplexity. The banana 
and pawpaw grow in most improbable places, and 
dispute with the cottages for their sides. Soldiers 
in red coats flash like flambeaux at every turn, and 



66 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

everywhere sailors, blockade-runners, citizens, 
merchants and lascivious mulatto women congre- 
gate like people at a fair. The plaza or open 
square is crowded with lazy negroes who have 
nothing to do ; not far away, among the shipping, 
is a camp of black women, huddled like gypsies 
around their pots and fires, engaged in cooking for 
such as are hungry and not curious as to culinary 
secrets. Near at hand is the market wharf, 
crowded with fishing boats, whose sable proprietors 
skin huge fish with dexterous knives as easily as one 
draws off his glove. These will always give good 
weight for an extra price per pound. Trade is 
active in all the shops, and not one but what has 
some interest in the blockade. The beer and gin 
shops drive a thriving business ; the clothing shops 
coin mo'ney ; and in the larger establishments huge 
piles of blockade goods fill every nook and cranny. 
Every one has his hands full of business. Ships 
cannot bring supplies fast enough. Shops are re- 
peatedly emptied and replenished. The large 
hotels cannot begin to accommodate all who apply, 
even though the charges are exhorbitant. Supplies 
of coals constantly arrive for the blockade runners, 
and many a swift steamer that comes from England 
finds her most profitable venture in the direction of 
a Confederate port. 

Such was the aspect of things in the once lethar- 
gic, staid old town of St. George's during the palm- 
iest days of the blockade. Who will say that the 
social benefits derived equalled the pecuniary pro- 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 57 

fits? What old resident did not shudder at the cor- 
ruption that danced attendance upon a feverish 
trade. As every project and every venture, in 
those days, looked toward the southern coast, of 
course the inhabitants were intensely " secesh." 
More than one resident of the islands ran the block- 
ade to fight the battles of the South. The songs 
of "Dixie" and the "Bonny Blue Flag" were 
heard everywhere. Even the negroes caught the 
infection, and sang how "Jefi' Davis is a gentleman 
Abe Lincoln is a fool." Confederate papers were 
received semi-weekly. Confederate flags were 
chalked upon the walls and gateways. Pictures of 
prominent southerners and of Rebel cruisers adorned 
the photograph galleries. Almost every house had 
some memento of the Confederacy. British goods 
were always in great demand by the blockade 
runners, for they would have no dealings with 
Yankees. A(;cordingly in the shops could be found 
bushels of Connecticut pins and cases of Massachu- 
setts shoes marked " London," elegant felt hats 
from New York labelled "Paris," and good, old 
Irish whiskey from New Jersey ; for there were 
many articles that could be purchased cheaper in 
the United States than in Europe, and the laws of 
trade are inflexible — "the longest pole knocks 
down the most persimmons." And so quantities of 
these goods found place in blockade cargoes to the 
great profit of speculative patriots in the Northern 
States. 



58 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

In that period of promiscuous scrambling for 
wealth, it was a relief to escape from this contam- 
inating atmosphere of St. George's to shake the dust 
from the feet, and fly at a spanking gait over the 
hard lime road toward Hamilton. It is the regular 
mail route, and a finer road is seldom seen. It is a 
luxury to drive over such a road. The breeze al- 
most always blows fresh from the ocean and tem- 
pers the heat of the ardent sun. Elegant equipages 
are encountered at frequent intervals, for they have 
fine carriages in Bermuda. The wheels fly around 
with a low, pleasant clatter as they reel off the 
easy miles, and the horses step off over steep 
ascent and level way alike, with a gait that never 
flags. 

What more need be said in praise of Bermuda, 
or in descriptive detail ? It is true that the flush times 
of the old blockading days have passed away. 
The golden gains they then enjoyed ^were as transi- 
tory as the so-called Southern Confederacy itself. 
The commercial fabric upon which many hopes 
were built has crumbled. The motley crowd of 
speculators and cormorants that thronged her streets 
is dispersed forever. Her wharves no longer 
swarm with shipping. Once more she has lapsed 
into the healthful quiet of her former peaceful life. 
The little colony lives and moves in blissful inde- 
pendence of the vexed questions that distract the 
world outside, unmoved by the turmoil of political 
strife. Happy is Bermuda ! no longer vexed with 
the fever of excitement that was attendant on the 
blockade. 



CHAPTER V. 



INHABITANTS. 

The white inhabitants of Bermuda are hospita- 
ble, well informed and agreeable. A stranger is 
at once impressed with the marked courtesy of the 
people. From the lowest to the highest, one will 
receive the most polite attention. A simplicity al- 
most arcadian characterize their manners, espec- 
ially those of the women. Many who have led 
very circumscribed lives, who have never been away 
from Bermuda, possess an ease and grace which 
would do credit to those of the most polished soci- 
ety, arising apparently from perfect faith in others, 
and an earnest desire to add to their pleasure in 
every possible way. In matters of etiquette, they 
resemble their English ancestors, and are generally 
much more exact than the Americans ; this is due to 
the fact, probably, of their association with the 
British military and naval officers, a large number 
of whom are always stationed here. 

They are a comfortable, well-to-do set of people, 
with here and there a family possessing ample 
means. As in England, property, especially real 



60 5 TARK '5 ILL US TRA TED 

estate, remains in the same family for a long period ; 
some of the descendants of the original settlers are 
to be found possessing lands that have never passed 
out of their family. The population of the islands 
reached its highest figure in 1780, when it was esti- 
mated at 15,000, it afterwards dwindled down to 
8,500, at which figure it stood in 1837. Since then 
it has gradually risen to its present number of 
about 14,650, of whom 60 per cent, are colored 
persons. 

Slavery, introduced in the early colonial days, 
was abolished in 1834, Bermuda being the first 
colony to advocate immediate rather than gradual 
emancipation. The laws recognized both Indian 
and Negro slavery, and, to a certain extent, also 
white, for many of the early white settlers were 
bondmen, and the child of a debtor could be sold 
at his fathers death and held as bondman until the 
debt was paid. There never was any large plan- 
tations here as in the southern states, and the in- 
stitution was undoubtedly a milder form than in the 
states. The more intelligent, learned trades, 01 
followed the sea, and many could read and write. 
The importation of Negroes from Africa ceased a 
long time before the abolition of slavery, this, to- 
gether with the admixture of the Indian with the 
Negro, may account for the improved type of 
physiognomy one encounters here. 

The faces of some are fine, and many of the 
women are really pretty. They are polite, about 
as well dressed as anybody, attend all the churches 



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BERMUDA GUIDE. 61 

and are interested in the schools, have their own 
secret and benevolent societies and are just as im- 
provident and lazy here as elsewhere. If they 
have any money, work is uninteresting to them ; 
when utterly destitute, they are ready to improve 
their finances, but when pay day comes they are 
|uite apt to retire from business, and spend their 
earnings, running the risk of again finding employ- 
ment, and most of them live in this make-shift way 
all their lives. A strong feeling of prejudice exists 
here against the colored people, the same as in the 
states. There is no place that the writer has ever 
visited, either in the Southern States, West Indies 
or South America, where the colored race has 
made the progress in civilization, or have attained 
as high a state of development, as they have on 
these islands. The Bermudians pride themselves 
on the fact that there are no beggars, or any such 
thing as pauperism here, there may be poverty in 
Bermuda, but squalor or absolute want does not 
exist there, and one of the first things that strikes 
the visitor is the appearance of ease and well-to-do 
comfort that pervades the islands. Instead of the 
tumble-down shanties that deform and defile the 
rest of the world, here the poorest Negro appears 
to dwell in marble halls. The houses of the rich- 
est and the poorest are built of the same material, 
a snow white stone of coral formation, which un- 
derHes every foot of soil on the islands. When 
first quarried, it is so soft that it is cut up into 
blocks with a hand saw, for it cuts easier than 



62 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

wood. It hardens when it is exposed to the air, 
and is so durable that a house built of it will last 
for centuries. There is no rubbish, dirt, mud or 
dust here, and together with the well-kept grounds, 
it gives an impression of affluence and elegance 
that is not seen elsewhere. 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 

Life is not nearly as dull in Bermuda, as might 
be supposed, there are plenty of out-door amuse- 
ments, driving, rowing, yachting, cricket, croquet, 
dinner parties and balls enliven the time, especially 
in the winter. As Bermuda is a British Army and 
Navy Station, it has a society remarkably good, 
superior to what may be found in any other winter 
resort. There are usually two regiments stationed 
here, and in the winter season it is the station for 
the North American fleet, this gives a certain tone 
to society. The officers of the army and navy, 
church and state have led a life of so much variety 
and action, that talking with them is like a chap- 
ter in a fascinating novel, so full are they of incidents 
and adventures they have encountered in their 
varied experiences all over the world. Equally at 
home in courts and camps, they have served their 
country in the chair of state, as well as on the field 
of battle. Many of them have been in every coun- 
try on the globe, and have seen foreign life under 
its best aspects. On the sands of Africa, on the 
burning plains of India, on. the bloody fields of 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 63 

Russia, Turkey and Egypt, they were known as 
men who never flinched in danger, but were ever 
ready to lay down their lives at their country's call. 
Meeting such people here is one of the charms of 
Bermudian society. 

Strangers bringing letters of introduction will 
meet with ample attention and visitors generally 
will be treated with every courtesy. Some of the 
most lovely and desirable residences on the island 
are owned and occupied by Americans. At 
"Fairy Land" resides General Hastings, formerly 
of the U. S. Army, who was severely wounded 
in the late civil war. Mrs. Hastings is a neice 
of ex-President Hayes ; they are also ver}^ 
hospitable and kind in entertaining visitors. If the 
moon and tide are right, one of the most beautiful 
sights that can be imagined is presented at Fairy 
Land. You row into little coves, then into what 
seems to be lakes, then around islands into inlets, 
where in the mangroves, every leaf glistening in 
the moonlight, you can almost see the fairies 
dancing. 

In the early days of the settlement, the clergy 
seemed to have exercised considerable social influ- 
ence in the colony, but the action of some of them 
later on, of disavowing their allegiance to the 
Church of England, throwing in their influence 
with the Puritan party, and conducting themselves 
with intolerence toward the people caused the 
little community to be embittered by sectarian 
ditTerence. 



64 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

Many more Americans would probably come 
here to reside if they were allowed to purchase 
real estate, but on this matter the government is 
very strict. No alien can own or inherit real estate 
in Bermuda, and Americans seem to have an 
antipathy against being naturalized. 

The governor has a reception every Wednesday 
at the government house. Mount Langton, his res- 
idence. The learned judge, the jovial marine, the 
sedate parson, and the doughty colonel all mingle 
here. The conversation may, or may not, be in- 
different ; you may hear the household gossip, or 
talk about India during the rebellion, about China, 
the scenery of Jamaica, the gay life at Malta, or 
of dear old England. There may be music from 
the regimental band, and so the time passes until 
refreshments are announced, which are served in 
the pretty dining room overlooking the sea. 

As the number of visitors increase, it cannot be 
expected, as a rule, that they will receive the same 
special attention, which the earlier visitors to Ber- 
muda have had, when the number of tourists were 
much smaller. 



GOVERNMENT. 



Since 1685, ^t which time the charter of the 
company expired, and the proprietory form of gov- 
ernment ceased, Bermuda has been a crown col- 
ony. The government is administered by a gover- 
nor, council and house of assembly. From the 



BERMUDA GUIDE. ^r, 

fact that Bermuda occupies such an important place 
as a military and naval station, being second only 
to Malta, it is deemed advisable to till the office 
with . a man sufficiently conversant with military 
affairs, to command any land forces which may be 
stationed here. Bermuda is so absolutely isolated 
that exigencies are liable to arise in which the 
action of the governor may be of the greatest 

political significance ; hence the office demands a 
man of varied talent. The governor acts so large- 
ly on his own responsibility, that he has the right of 
veto, and no bill can pass the assembly without 
his consent. The governor is appointed by the 
Crown, and is now usually a general officer of the 
Royal Artillery or of the Royal Engineers. He is 
paid mainly by the Imperial Government, the col- 
ony contributing only a small amount towards his 
salary. He holds office for six years. The coun- 
cil is composed of ten members, appointed by the 
Imperial Government for life. The present house 
of assembly is an elected body of thirty-six mem- 
bers. Bermuda is divided into nine tribes or par- 
ishes, from each of which four representatives are 
sent to the assembly. 

The opinions of an impecunious man are regarded 
as politically worthless, and he is not therefore en- 
titled to the ballot, until he owns real estate worth 
£60. If he aspires to be an assemblyman he 
must possess four times that amount in real estate. 
The colored people have the same civil rights as the 



66 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

whites, and although they outnumber the whites 
two to one, yet there are not one-third as many 
colored voters as white. It is the property quali- 
fication in the Bermudian form of government thai 
is most admired by American visitors, that come 
from states that are under Ring and Boss rule, the 
result of universal suffrage. 

The assembly usually convenes on alternate days 
in summer. The opening is quite an affair. The 
governor, dressed in uniform, makes his speech, the 
different ofRcials appear in their uniforms, and the 
soldiers enliven the scene. 



EDUCATION. 



One of the greatest needs of Bermuda is a good 
system of public schools and trained teachers. All 
the educational work is done by a few earnest peo- 
ple whose labors are unappreciated and poorly re- 
warded. There is an annual grant provided by 
the assembly of £1,200, an inspector of schools 
whose whole time is devoted to the duties of his 
office, and a local board of education. Most of 
the pupils pay a tuition fee of 6d. per week, though 
no child w^ould be excluded if unable to do so, for 
education is compulsory. The public schools are 
almost wholly attended by colored children. The 
antagonism of races is very strong ; the whites 
absolutely refuse to attend the same school 
with the blacks, where the latter would be in a 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 67 

decided majority. Those who can aflbrd it hire 
private tutors or send their children abroad to 
be educated. 



RELIGION. 



The Episcopal is the established church here, 
and more than one-half of the population are of 
that denomination : they have nine parish churches 
and two chapels of ease. There are one Roman 
Catholic, two Presbyterian, nine Wesley an, one 
Methodist Episcopal and one Reformed Episcopal 
chapels. According to the census, taken in 1881, 
the religious professions of the inhabitants are as 
follow^s ; Church of England, 10,003 5 Wesleyan, 
1,672; Methodist Episcopal, 752; Roman Catholic, 
391 ; Reformed Episcopal, 208. 

The Bermudians are a church-going people, and 
all the churches are well attended. The general 
appearance of the congregation is not unlike that 
of a New England country audience, with faces a 
trifle less care-worn. The preaching is peculiary 
simple, with no suggestion of sensationalism or 
radicalism in it. 

The churches are very plain, built generally in 
the form of a cross, surrounded by the church-yard 
with its dead. The oldest church is St. Peters, at 
St. George's, occupying a commanding site in the 
old church yard. There are several handsome 
memorial mural tablets. The communion plate of 
massive silver was presented by King Willian- III. 



68 STAJilC'S ILLUSTRATED 

in 1684, and the silver christening basin was the 
gift of Governor Wm. Browne, a loyalist refugee 
from Salem, Massachusetts. The new church is 
being built on the Government House grounds. 
The style is early English, with a tower rising in 
the intersection of nave, transept and chancel. 

Trinity Church of Hamilton, known as the 
Cathedral or "chapel of ease," was very beauti- 
ful in all its parts, and thorough in all its details, it 
contained several beautiful memorial windows, com- 
posed of stained glass ; it was by far the finest 
building on the islands, and would have been con- 
sidered an ornament to an}^ city. It was erected at 
a cost of £12,000 in 1850, and destroyed by fire 
early in the morning of Sunday, January 27, 1884. 
It was supposed to have been the dastardly work of 
some miscreant, but what object could have been 
gained by perpetrating such an outrage it is hard 
to tell. A new cathedral is now being built on the 
site of the old one. 



MILITARY AND NAVAL. 

Bermuda stands in the centre of the Atlantic, 
singularly and peculiarly situated by nature. En- 
circling the islands is a chain of coral reefs and 
sunken rocks, through which is only a limited num- 
ber of navigable openings, and these are intricate 
and dangerous unless buoyed and traversed un- 
der the guidance of experienced pilots. These 



XSi 

O 




BERMUDA GUIDE. 69 

natural defences, are supplemenied by heavily 
armed forts and batteries, at suitable points, which 
command the entrances through the reefs, and all 
the principal channels. In case of necessity, all 
buoys would be removed, and the channels lined 
with torpedos, of which there are large quantities 
at hand, to be used as the case required. This 
makes of Bermuda a naturally impregnable fortress, 
one of Englands most powerful strongholds, sec- 
ond only to Gibralter, in being the strongest forti- 
fied place in the world. A stranger coming here 
wonders why this speck of land in the midst of the 
Atlantic Ocean should require a fort on every ex- 
posed point, why there should be batteries and 
martello towers at every turn, and why red-coats 
and marines should meet you at every corner. 
But it should be remembered, that this is the ren- 
dezvous for the British fleet, in all these waters, 
and here vast quantities of arms and ammunition 
are stored. The importance of Bermuda, as a 
British possession, is irrespective of its dimensions or 
commercial relations, for, situated as these islands 
are, being within two days sail of any of the ports 
on the Atlantic coast of the United States, and 
about midway between the British possessions in the 
West Indies and North America, it cannot be 
questioned, but that, in case of a war with the 
United States, Englands strong position here would 
give her an immense advantage, for these islands 
would be of the greatest importance, as a base of 
naval operation against that country. 



70 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

According to the earliest records, great attention 
has been given to the defences of these islands, 
from the date of the first settlement to the present 
time. 

The standing orders of the Bermuda Company, 
constituted the whole male population of the islands 
a militia, for the defence of the place, with the 
governor as captain general. After the expiration 
of the company's charter, a militia act was passed 
by the colonial legislature, ordering that every male 
inhabitant, between the ages of 15 and 60 years, 
should do military service. The militia consisted 
of nine companies, to which, in 1707, a troop of 
horse w^as added. 

The important nature of the fort and batteries 
erected immediately after the settlement of these 
islands, can be seen by referring to the engravings 
of the Bermudas, as shown in Captain John 
Smith's "General Historic of Virginia, New Eng- 
land and the Summer lis," published in 1624, 
a reproduction of w^hich we have inserted in this 
work. The forts and batteries were erected, 
manned and provided v^ith munition of w^ar by the 
early settlers, in order to protect themselves from 
the Spaniards, pirates and buccaneers who abound- 
ed in these seas at that time. 

It appears that it was not till after the American 
revolution that the British Government discovered 
the great strategic importance of these islands. As 
a matter of fact, it was the loss of her thirteen 
American colonies that enhanced their value as a 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 7] 

Strong military and naval position. Mention is 
made of the presence of the Royal Artillery in 
1783, and in 1797 seven companies of the 47th regi- 
ment arrived from New Providence, and since that 
time Bermuda has been garrisoned by regular 
troops. It was at the close of the civil war in Amer- 
ica, that the Imperial Government made the largest 
expenditures on the military defences. It was then 
that the present system of elaborate fortifications, 
of such immense strength that there is nothing 
equal to them out of England, was commenced, 
and Bermuda, hitherto attached to the Halifax com- 
mand, was erected into a separate and independent 
one. 

There are commodious barracks for the troops 
at St, George's, and an airy, convenient camp at 
Prospect Hill, a high commanding position nearly 
in the centre of the island, near Hamilton. In ad- 
dition to the headquarter stations of Prospect and 
St. George's, there are detachments of troops at 
Ireland Islands, Boaz and other points, and a rifle 
range at Warwick. 

In 1794 Captain Hurd reported to Admiral Mur- 
ray the importance of Bermuda as a naval station, 
this fact was recognized, and the preliminary oper- 
ations for the establishment of a dock-yard were 
commenced in January, 1810, on Ireland Island. 
Skilled artisans were despatched from England to 
direct and superintend the slave labor, by which 
the work was to be done. In 1842 it was decided 
to substitute convict labor in these operations, and 



72 STARK* S ILLUSTRATED 

three hundred convicts were sent out from England 
as a commencement ; these were gradually increased 
by fresh arrivals until, in 1848, they numbered over 
1,500. They were distributed in hulks, in the Cam- 
ber of the dock-yard, and in prisons erected on the 
adjoining island of Boaz, now used as barracks. 
In 1861, it was determined to abolish the system, 
and successive drafts were sent to Australia and 
England. The last in March, 1863, closed the 
convict period in the islands. 

From first to last over 9,000 convicts arrived in 
the colony, and above 2,000 of them died, the yel- 
low fever epidemic of 1853 falling heavily on the 
convict establishment. 

Ireland Island contains an important arsenal 
and a commodious ''Camber" or open basin, 
formed by the erection of a breakwater, which 
accommodates a large number of vessels along the 
wharfs. 

There is a steam factory of the first class, and 
every facility exists for repairing boats and ships of 
the largest size. The fortifications are extensive 
and formidable, and under existing conditions of 
attack may be considered impregnable. A num- 
ber of men-of-war, including the flag ship of the 
North American fleet, rendezvous here every win- 
ter. Exclusively of these is a captain, superintend- 
ent and a staff' of naval employes, including about 
two hundred seamen, one hundred and fifty ma- 
rines and nearly eight hundred dock-yard laborers. 
This important position required only the addition 




X 

O 

> 

O 
> 

5 

Q 

d 
O 
o 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 73 

of the famous floating dock to render it complete. 
It was launched in Sheerness in 1868, and was 
towed across the Atlantic and brought into its 
present position after an exciting voyage of fifty- 
six days. 

It is 381 feet long, 124 feet broad and 74 feet 
deep, with forty-eight water tight compartments. 
This enormous structure is said to be the largest of 
its kind in the world, and will receive the largest 
iron-clad built. It weighs over 8,200 tons, draws 
when light 1 1 feet of water, and when sunk 50 feet ; 
it took two years to build, and cost about a quarter 
of a million sterling. There is every facility for 
the reception and rapid repair of vessels, and for 
the dock itself to be hauled over for cleaning and 
repairs. 

One of the main objects of the defence of the 
islands is the protection of this valuable dock-yard ; 
and the approaches to it are guarded by numerous 
heavily-armed forts and batteries. In addition 
to these forts and batteries which are built and 
fixed according to an elaborate plan, there is 
a large submarine mining establishment, by which 
torpedoes and other subsidiary means of defence 
can be put down at short notice, and movable road 
batteries are prepared to supplement the stationary 
defences, and to command points where landing by 
boats might be attempted on the south side of the 
island. No foreign power has ever conquered 
these islands, and probably never will as long as 
England remains mistress of the seas. 



CHAPTER VI. 

AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE. 

Although three crops of vegetables can be pro- 
duced annually, still agriculture is in a very back- 
ward state. In the early days of the colony, when 
its affairs were under the control of the Company, 
large crops of tobacco were successfully cultivated, 
and became the principal article of export to Eng- 
land. During the 17th century, a brisk trade in 
oranges and lemons was carried on, but, of late 
years, agriculture has received but little attention, 
and is chiefly confined to raising onions and early 
potatoes for the New York market. The descend- 
ants of the early settlers appear to have gradually 
lost much of the agricultural knowledge of their 
forefathers. 

The great fertility and prodigious growth of veg- 
etation in warm climates, when compared with the 
northern parts of the world, is almost incredible, so 
that even now, with a few patches only that have 
been subjected to cultivation, such is the produc- 
tiveness of the soil, that the exports of the colony 
are surprisingly great. If the valleys and other 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 75 

places sheltered from the wind were to be planted 
with bananas, oranges, plantains, lemons, figs, 
shaddocks, pineapples and other tropical fruits and 
vegetables, there is no doubt but that a profitable 
business could be done in supplying the visitors 
that are annually resorting to these islands. As it 
is, there is not near fruit enough raised to supply 
the home consumption. 

The present prospects of agriculture in Bermuda 
command serious considerations, especially as New 
York is now drawing largely on Florida for its 
early vegetables and fruits. Florida is fast filling 
up with an industrious and progressive population 
from the northern states, who devote their attention 
entirely to agriculture, besides new lines of railway 
are being constructed all over that state, so that 
produce can be shipped to the northern markets in 
less time than it can be sent from Bermuda by 
steamship to New York. Agriculture was at first 
the leading pursuit in Bermuda, but was gradually 
abandoned for ship building, and the manufacture 
of salt at Turks Island. Bermuda was largely en- 
gaged at one time, in the West India trade, and 
carried on a large commerce with the British Prov- 
inces and the United States, in vessels built of their 
native cedar ; with the abolition of slavery, the 
rise of ship building in the Provinces, and other 
causes, the trade graduaFy slipped away. 



76 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 



CLIMATE. 



Bermuda enjoys one of the finest climates in the 
world, situated, as it is, in mid-ocean, on the south- 
eastern margin of the Gulf Stream, that sweeps 
along between the island and the American coast, 
it IS entirely tree from frost. The cold, wintry 
blasts that come down from Manitoba and Dakota, 
extending even to Florida, are, after passing over 
the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, warmed, and 
this accounts for the fact that, although Bermuda is 
but one-half as far south from New York as Flor- 
ida, yet it enjoys a far more equal climate than any 
place in the United States, either on the Atlantic or 
Gulf coast. 

August and September are the hottest and most 
disagreeable months, owing to the enervating 
southerly winds. There is, however, almost in- 
variably a good breeze from some quarter, and the 
nights and mornings are cool and delightful. Sun- 
stroke is unknown. The mercury seldom rises 
above 85 degrees, or falls below 50 degrees, while 
the average is about 70 degrees. Bermudians sit 
on their verandas throughout the year, and the 
majority of the people never think of a fire, ex- 
cept for cooking purposes. Only in the better class 
of houses are fire-places provided, and a fire is 
enjoyed occasionally, in the colder days of winter, 
and is useful to counteract the dampness. 

Strangers who resort here, in the winter, gener- 
ally speak highly of the climate. The worn out 



BERMUDA GUIDE, "{'J 

and exhausted business man and the aged, gener- 
ally find the place most agreeable and appropriate 
for a lengthened stay. The islands are noted for 
the longevity of the native population, especially of 
the whites. 

There seems to be no diseases pecuHar to the 
climate. Consumptives often resort here, but sel- 
dom derive that benefit which they experience in a 
dry climate. The climate seems to be especially 
beneficial to those afilicted with rheumatism, bron- 
chial and nervous diseases. Bermuda has suflfered 
several times from yellow fever, but in each in- 
stance, so far as it could be ascertained, it was 
brought there from other ports ; the last attack was 
during the civil war in America, when the country 
was full of vicious and filthy men, congregated 
here from the West Indies and Southern ports. So 
well situated are the islands, that there is no excuse 
for defective drainage or quarantine. 

The clothing best suited to the climate in the 
winter season is the same as is worn in the United 
States or England in the early spring or late in the 
fall. In the summer season the very lightest 
clothing should be worn, ladies find muslins and 
thin wash materials most desirable, and they are 
worn quite late in the fall. The dresses should be 
very simple in material as well as style. 



78 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

GEOLOGY. 

Bermuda, geologically speaking, is an ** atoll," a 
ring of coral reefs surrounding a central lagoon. 
This coral structure is of a recent formation, and 
rests on the top of a submarine mountain. What 
the basis on which the reefs rests may be, there is 
no means of telling ; in fact its having the form of 
an atoll precludes the possibility of doing so. There 
seems but little doubt, according to competent au- 
thorities, that the atoll form is due to the entire dis- 
appearance by subsidence of the island round which 
the reef was originally formed. The abruptness 
and isolation of this peak, which runs up a solitary 
cone from the level bed of the Atlantic to a height 
of about three miles, or about equal to that of Mont 
Blanc, is certainly very unusual, and the most rea- 
sonable theory is that the kernel is a volcanic moun- 
tain, comparable in character with Pico in the 
Azores or the Peak of Teneriffe. It would appear 
that the outer edge of the mountain summit, now 
represented by the ring of coral reefs, was among 
the first portion to attract and arrest the wandering 
zoophytes of the surrounding currents. 

The coral barriers thus reared are much the same 
as those of similar reefs in the Pacific, and is the farth- 
est from the equator of any coral island in the world, 
being almost on the limit of the region of reef build- 
ing corals. The general form and position of the 
reef and its islets are shown on the accompanying 
map, and, although an elevated atoll, the emerged 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 79 

land, about fifteen miles in length, is confined to the 
side facing southeast. 

The Bermuda Islands, in common with most other 
coral islands, are formed by the raising of the 
weather edge of the reef above the level of the sea. 




BERMUDA. 

This appears to be accomplished, in the first place, 
by the agency of the waves alone, for the coral 
rock is never formed far out of water, as the insect 
in a few minutes of exposure to the air melts into 
slime. The beach is first formed on the reef in the 
following manner. Fragments of coral and shell 
fish, many of them with the inherent power of in- 
creasing and cementing themselves together through 
the growth of the living things which invest them, 
are piled upon one another until they reach the 
highest point accessable to the sea in storms, then 
every breaker of the eternal surf grinds the coral 
and dead shells into a fine coral sand, and the 
moment the ridge appears above water, a beach of 



80 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

coralline sand is formed. The top of the beach 
dries at low water, and the sand is blown on, first 
among the crevices of the breakwater already 
formed, which it widens and strengthens, and then 
over the breakwater to the ledges and reefs beyond, 
which it tends to raise to the surface. In this way, 
in all coral seas, 'islands have a tendency to form 
along the windward edges of annular reefs. The 
windv/ard island then forms a shelter to the lee- 
ward portion of the rixig, depriving it of the main 
source of its elevation, the piling up of fragments by 
the waves ; so that on the leeward side we usually 
have more or less of the reef remaining submerged, 
and any passages of communication between the 
central lagoon and the outer sea. 

There is a wonderful " sand-o;lacier" at Elbow 
Bay on the southern shore of the main island, where 
these processes can actually be observed. The 
sand has entirely filled up a valley, and is steadily 
progressing inland in a mass about 25 feet thick. 
The glacis is very regular, and on its path upward 
from the beach, this *' glacier" has overwhelmed a 
wood of cedars and also a house, all that now re- 
mains of it is the top of one of the chimneys pro- 
jecting above the white sand like a tombstone, with 
a great bush of oleanders drooping over it. 

The prevailing wind which is from the south-west 
was an important factor in the advance and arrange- 
ment of the atoms of which these islands are 
formed, continually sweeping up fresh deposits of 
the coralline sand, drying it and blowing it onwards 



BERMUDA GVIDE. 



81 



in drifts or sand glaciers. Thus the southern 
boundaries of the land were extended, while the 
northern margins, being to leeward and not so lib- 
erally supplied, wore away, subsided and retreated, 
until at the present time as much as ten miles of 




CHIMNEY OF A HOUSE BURIED IN SAND. 

water at some points intervene between the reef and 
the existing coast line. The north rock composed 
of a harder material stands as a proof of the former 
extent of dry land to the northward of the lagoon. 
It is the sole surviving monument of a Bermuda 
which has ceased to exist, and is a group of 
pinacles, the loftiest only 15 feet high, which rises 



82 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

from the outer reef at about eight miles distant from 
the land, where, having been buffeted by the storms 
of countless ages, it is slowly yielding to the doom 
of inevitable disintegration. 

Bermuda is, as we have shown, composed entirely 
of calcarious rocks derived from broken coral and 




NORTH ROCK. 



shells. These rocks vary in texture from loose sand 
to compact limestone, the different varieties are ir- 
regularly associated and without any order of super- 
position. 

The process by which free coral sand is converted 
into limestone is very simple, and involves no great 
lapse of time. The sand consists almost entirely of 
carbonate of lime, and is easily soluble in water 
containing carbonic acid, such as rain water, which 
derives the acid from the atmosphere. The rain 
falls upon the surface of the sand, takes up a little 
lime in the form of a bicarbonate, and then, as it 
sinks in, it loses the carl onic acid and itself evapo- 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 83 

rates, and it leaves the previously dissolved car- 
bonate of lime as a thin layer of cement, coating 
and uniting together grains of sand. The rocks 
remain then permeable to water and soluble, so 
that this process of solution and deposition goes on 
constantly. The extreme result is a marble-like 
limestone. 

There are no minerals on these islands except 
what is contained in the red earth which forms the 
surface soil ; this is composed of peroxide of iron 
and alumina, silica and some earthy phosphates. 
These substances are to a very small degree soluble 
in water charged with carbonic acid ; consequently, 
after the gradual removal of the lime contained in 
the coral sand by the rain water, a certain sediment 
or ash, as it were, is left behind, extracted by the 
shell forming zoophytes from the water of the ocean ; 
this residue amounts to about one per cent. This may 
seem a very small proportion, but it must be re- 
membered that it represents one ton in every hun- 
dred tons of material removed by the action of 
water and the atmosphere; and the evidence of 
denudation on a large scale, are every where so 
marked, that even were some portion of this one 
per cent, residue further altered and washed away 
enough might be left to account fully for the whole 
of the red earth. 

It forms a very fertile soil and when treated with 
nitrogenous manure, such as that from the farm 
yard, will grow almost any thing, only clay is 
wanted to make the soil more retentive of moisture. 



84 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

This red earth mixed with vegetable soils and de- 
cayed wood, is frequently found in quarries at a 
depth of from fifteen to thirty feet beneath the solid 
limestone ; this is accounted for by the sand glacier 
that has crept over it, the advancing waves of sand 
having enveloped in their course from time to time 
intervening objects, and becoming in its turn hard- 
ened over them. 

Vegetable soil has also been found at a great 
depth below the level of tide water. This is a direct 
evidence of subsidence, and the most satisfactory 
proof was given when the bed was prepared for the 
great floating dock at Ireland Island, it was neces- 
sary to make an excavation in the Camber extend- 
ing to a depth of fifty feet below low water. First 
they came in the cutting of twenty-five feet 
below the surface, to a bed of calcarious mud, 
five feet thick, forming the floor of the basin, 
next to loose beds, twenty feet thick, of coral 
sand mixed with shells forming a freestone, be- 
neath this at a depth of forty-five feet from low 
water mark, there is a bed of a kind of peat, 
and vegetable soil, containing stumps of cedar in a 
vertical position, and the remnants of other land veg- 
etation with the remains of several birds ; the peat 
was ascertained by boring to lie upon the ordinary 
hard base rocks. Instances have been repeatedly 
recorded during the last half century of vessels' an- 
chors having dragged up in diflferent places within 
the barrier reef, and also at Hamilton and St. 
George's harbors, portions of cedar trees especially 



86 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

the roots having the appearance of being torn from 
their original positions. 

About the year 1869, submarine blasting was 
carried on at the entrance to Hamilton harbor 
in order to deepen the entrance channel, which 
revealed the fact of a cavern existing at a depth of 
over six fathoms, containing stalactites and red 
earth. 

Now it is very clear that the peat, cedar stumps, 
and vegetable soil, found at Ireland Island, and the 
stalactite cavern and red earth found beneath the 
harbor, were at one time above water, which in the 
latter case even if the cedar trees, grew in the earth 
at the level of the ocean, would raise the islands 
forty-two feet above their present elevation ; suffi- 
cient to bring the whole bottom of the lagoon ex- 
tending from the shore to the outer barrier reef 
above water. 

As caves are usually found in all limestone dis- 
tricts, Bermuda is not an exception to this rule, the 
islands contain many large vaulted chambers, hol- 
lowed out of the rock by the removal of its material 
by running fresh water, or by the action of the sea. 
This process is more rapid in coral islands than it 
is where the rock belongs to one of the older forma- 
tions. The entrances are usually small crevices in 
the rock, often almost masked by vegetation, such 
as is shown in the illustration of the Convolvulus 
Cave, which derives its name from the glorious 
mantle of flowers with which the entrance is 
covered. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 87 

THE AQUARIUM. 

The Bermuda Natural History Society in 1907 
secured control of Agar's Island in Hamilton harbor, 
together with its docks, landings, residences and 
storehouses recently used for the storing of munitions 
of war. The former powder magazine here is a 
massive structure of masonry, built in the hillside. 
In dimension it is 150 feet long by more than 100 
feet in length, roofed over with earth and surrounded 
by a deep moat open to the sun. It consists of jo 
deep alcoves with heavy arched ceilings, opening up 
a central passageway. This structure has been turned 
into a public aquarium. The moat has been divided 
into compartments by cross partitions to furnish the 
necessary tanks; large window holes cut through the 
walls of the alcoves and filled wnth heavy plate glass 
furnish from 20 to 30 aquaria of the grotto type. 

The rarest and most beautiful tropical fishes are 
here seen in their native waters, as is to be seen in 
any part of the world. Every visitor to Bermuda 
should visit this famous aquarium, which can be 
easily reached by boat at the foot of Queen street, 
or from the Princess Hotel. 



CHAPTER VII. 

HAMILTON. 

Visitors on landing at Hamilton will find it to their 
advantage to secure board and lodgings at that 
place, for it is the most central location on the 
islands, and excursions can be made from there to 
any part of the islands and return the same day. 

There are two towns in Bermuda, Hamilton and 
St. George's, the former is the capital and principal 
town, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Ham- 
ilton does not lie upon the sea as one would expect, 
from the small size of Bermuda but on a harbor al- 
most landlocked. It is laid out quite regularly, and 
is situated on the southerly side of hilly land facing 
the harbor. It is named after Governor Hamilton, 
under whom the change of the seat of government 
from St. George's was determined in 1793. The 
site was purchased, and the corporation had vested 
in them the right of selling and conveying town lots. 
The assembly met at Hamilton, Jan. 21, 1815. The 
water privileges of the corporation form its chief 



90 



5 TARK 'vS ILL US TRA TED 



source of revenue. The main frontage has been 
lined with masonry, and three large iron sheds 
erected, with tanks and brick floor, for the accom- 
modation of vessels landing their freight. Front 
street contains the principal places of business, and 
as its name would signify fronts the harbor. There 




INDIA RUBBER TREE. 



are several substantial residences and public build- 
ings in Hamilton, such as the " Sessions House," 
situated on a hill east of Trinity Church, having 
on its basement floor the Court House, in which the 
assizes are held, and above, the House of Assem- 
bly. Below the hill on which the Session's House 
stands is the '*PubHc Buildings," erected in 1839. 



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BERMUDA GUIDE. 91 

Here is the ** Custom House," "Colonial Office," 
'* Public Library," ** Council Chamber," and on the 
upper landing is a small museum containing natural 
history specimens, etc. 

The small area in which the public building stands 
is tastefully planted with trees, one of which, a 
cedar, was planted by Prince Alfred in 1862. 
The memorial obelisk to Governor Reid also stands 
near. 

There are many private gardens in the vicinity of 
Hamilton that are exquisitely laid out, and kept in 
perfect order, some of them contain magnificent 
specimens of the India Rubber tree, one very near 
the Hamilton House can be seen that was sent here 
thirty-five years ago from Essequebo ; it is now 
grown to be an enormous tree, the trunk twelve feet 
in circumference, running up three or four feet from 
the ground, and then dividing into five large limbs, 
rising in all nearly fifty feet from the ground, and 
covering with its dense shade space all around of 
at least seventy feet. A good idea of the tree can 
be formed trom the accompanying illustration. 



MOUNT LANGTON. 

There are several interesting localities within easy 
walking distance of Hamilton, which will repay 
the trouble taken in reaching them. The roads 
leading from Hamilton into the country are exceed- 
ingly picturesque, and are bordered by many fine 



92 STAJeK'S ILLUSTRATED 

estates. Cedar avenue, lined on each side with 
cedar trees, fringes Victoria Park, in which are 
many beautiful specimens of tropical plants. Going 
north by way of Cedar avenue you pass the Ewing 
estate, the Parish church, the Hall property, and 
Mount Wyndham, you then reach Mount Langton, 
the governor's residence. A fine view can be ob- 
tained from here of the sea coast all along the north 
shore of the island from St. George's to Ireland Island, 
also an extensive view to the southward embracing 
the town of Hamilton, Pembroke Marsh and the 
waters of the Great sound studded with islands of 
every size ; while far in the distance the hills of 
Port Royal, with the light-house crowning the sum- 
mit of the highest, melt into the blue haze of the 
distant horizon. 

The grounds of Mount Langton are fertile and 
picturesque, and contain about seventy acres. The 
house and land were purchased by the colony from 
Mr. Joseph Stowe, in 1814, for £4,800. In the 
garden and lawn are to be seen many beautiful 
tropical trees, shrubs and plants, such as the gru 
gru palms, india rubber trees, bamboos, the wampee 
and litchi trees. Most of these trees were planted 
about 1 841 by Governor Reid. The large silk 
cotton trees in the garden were planted by Gov- 
ernor Elliott about 1850. 

Permission should always be asked to visit these 
grounds, as well as all private gardens, this priv- 
ilege is usually freely granted to visitors, but care 
should be taken not to destroy plants and shrubs 



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94 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

and injure trees ; care should also be taken in cross- 
ing fields under crop. 

The distance from the Hamilton House to Mount 
Langton is about one mile. 



CLARENCE HILL. 



One of the most delightful places in Bermuda to 
visit is Clarence Hill, the residence of the Admiral, 
distance from Hamilton about two miles. The 
road from Hamilton is a wild one, and full of 
variety, with most charming combinations of the 
woods, country, and sea. 

Starting from Front street, Hamilton, for Clarence 
Hill we go west by the office of the American consulate 
and passing Rose Bank and Long House to Pitts Bay, 
then passing Olive Hill, a part of the Master's es- 
tate, you come to Norwood, this estate has been held 
continuously in the Saltus family, (connected by 
marriage with Norwood, the surveyor of Bermuda, 
who lived on the shore near the present bathing 
house) till the death of Mr. Samuel Saltus in 1880, 
who bequeathed it to Mr. Henry Darrell, who is 
now greatly improving it. Westfield, opposite Nor- 
wood, was bequeathed by Mr. Samuel Saltus to 
the Parish of Pembroke, for a rectory ; adjoining 
it is the Wainwright, Leon and Stowe proprietors. 
The Wainwright section was purchased recently by 
Mr. Hastings, on which he erected a large man- 
sion, this portion is known as Fairy Land, and is 
one of the first places that visitors seek out on land- 




PAW PAW TREES, CLARENCE HILL. 



96 STAJ^A^'S ILLUSTRATED 

ing at Bermuda, on account of its beautiful scenery 
and magnificient lily fields, where more than one 
hundred thousand blossoms can often be seen at 
one time. Opposite to Fairy Land the Imperial 
Government have their magazine on Agar's Island. 

The mangroves, from whence the creek here 
takes its name, are well worthy of observation, 
they are a species of tree that grow in the mud 
along the sea shore and in marshy places, and are 
found only in tropical or semi-tropical countries, the 
foliage is a dark green, and from the branches shoots 
droop down and take root in the mud, and form 
new stocks till they cover a space of several hun- 
dred yards in circumference, presenting a most pe- 
culiar appearance, in this respect it is similar to the 
banyan tree of India. Passing around Mangrove 
Creek we arrive at Clarence Hill, situated on Span- 
ish Point. The grounds connected with Admiralty 
House are quite extensive and well kept, the house 
is plain, but the attractiveness of the place is in its 
marine views and natural scenery. On a hill side 
overlooking the sea, in a most sequestered spot, is 
an exquisite bit of gardening. Mosses, ferns and 
many tropical plants grow in such profusion and 
grace, peeping from under rocks, and climbing over 
them, that it is only by critical inspection that you 
perceive that their presence is due to cultivation. 

A very singular looking tree is the paw paw, 
which is seen here, rising up slim and straight with- 
out any branches, the fruit in shape like a lemon, 
growing directly from the trunk. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 97 

Nearby is a cave, against whose outer wall the sea 
is forever dashing ; it was tunnelled by a former 
Admiral, and is so large that on its completion a 
ball was given in it, by way of celebration. 

The view from the face of the hill looking down 
to the extremity of Spanish Point, and over the 
water to Ireland Island, is very fine, particularly al 
low tide, when Cobbler's Isle, theLapstone and the 
Stagg's Rocks rise from the foaming waters to 
guard the passage to the harbor within, these islets 
are honey combed by caverns and natural arches of 
singular aspect. 

On returning to Hamilton, when half way along 
the road, if the visitor will take a narrow path 
which is seen on the right hand, he will be amply 
rew^arded for the break in his journey, by suddenly 
coming upon some of the most charming scenery 
in Bermuda. The shore is here indented by num- 
erous inlets which have their banks clothed with 
well grown trees and a verdant carpet of grass be- 
neath. The waters of the sound come rippling in, 
and if a pleasant westerly wind is blowing, there is 
no cooler or more delightful spot to ruralise in than 
*' Point Share" as the locality is named. 



HAMILTON TO ST. GEORGE'S. 

We will now suppose that the visitor is desirous 
of seeing St. George's, the ancient capital of Ber- 
muda, and also the intervening places of interest 
on the way there. The distance there from Hamil- 



98 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

ton is about twelve miles. Carriages with care- 
ful drivers can always be had at short notices at the 
livery stables, and at quite reasonable rates. Con- 
veyance can also be had in the mail carriage that 
leaves Hamilton twice each day for St. George's. 

There are three roads from Hamilton that con- 
verge at the Flatts at the head of Hamilton Sound, 
round which run two roads meeting at the Cause- 
way, and thence one road round Mullet Bay to St. 
George's. 

The North Road is the most airy and easy road 
and affords the finest view of the ocean. Leaving 
Hamilton by way of Cedar Avenue and passing by 
the " Woodlands," where there can be seen some 
fine specimens of cocoanut palms, Pembroke Church 
and Mount Langton, and the new government home, 
you enter the north road, skirting the seashore all 
the way to Flatt's Village. 



DUCKING STOOL. 

The first object of interest to be seen on the 
north shore road is the "Ducking Stool" rock, 

which overhangs the 
water, and had in years 
of yore (when witchcraft 
and sorcery were viewed 
by an ignorant and super- 
stitious population as due 
DUCKING STOOL. offeuccs, ouly punishable 

by the most cruel of means) ; an apparatus by 
which the poor unfortunate wretches accused of 




BERMUDA GUIDE. 99 

these crimes were barbarously tormented by a 
course of *' ducking "in the sea, which frequently 
ended in the death of the victims. Hence the 
name which has- always been borne by this rock to 
the present day. The practice of ducking began 
in the latter part of the 15 th century and prevailed 
until the early part of the present century. One of 
the most frequent offences punished by ducking, 
was that of the common scolds, who were tied into 
the chair or stool and plunged into the water as a 
punishment, in the manner as shown in the illus- 
tration. 

THE WELLS. 

About a mile and a half beyond the DucKing 
Stool on the road to the Flatts, there will be ob- 
served on the right hand, near the sea shore, numer- 
ous wells, these formerly supplied the navy with 
water before the large tanks and water sheds were 
constructed that are now in use. These wells are 
sunk to the high water level of the sea and the 
surface rain water gathering in them lies on the 
heavier salt water, mixing only slightly with it. 
The tendency, however, of the water in them to be- 
come brackish and impure has led to the general 
discontinuance of nearly all the wells on the islands. 
It follows from what has been said of the formation 
of these islands that there is not any fresh water 
here, except what is obtained by storage of rain 
m tanks. Every house has one or more such 
tanks, and the local law obhges, when houses are 



100 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

built, that this essential reservoir shall be con- 
structed. The buildings are for this end usually 
roofed with thin slabs of limestone, periodically 
whitewashed to correct the porosity and to keep the 
surface white and clean. Level surfaces of ground 
on gentle slopes are also similarily prepared from 
which water is led into reservoirs. The water 
thus stored is tolerably pure as long as the tanks 
are kept clean. 



GIBBONS BAY. 



Just before reaching Flatt's Village on the left 
hand will be seen a little sandy bay, with an island 
beyond joined by a causeway of large stone blocks 
to the shore. This is known as Gibbons Bay, and 
will be found an excellent place for collecting shells 
and seaweeds at low water. Crossing the little 
causeway the visitor reaches 

GALLOWS ISLAND, 

on which , at its highest point, stands a weather-worn 
pole, this marks the spot where a slave was gib- 
beted for murdering his master about the year 1754, 
and still goes by the name of "Quashi's Pole." If 
the visitor be geologically inclined he will, a few 
yards to the north-west of the pole, not far from 
the shore, perceive a mass of stalagmite, which 
evidently once formed the floor of a cavern ; this is 
one of the many proofs in regard to the greater 
elevation of these islands, a matter that has been 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 101 

treated on before in this work under the heading of 
geology. By advancing a short distance farther we 
come to 

FLATT'S VILLAGE. 

In olden times this pretty inlet of the sea pre- 
sented a different aspect from what it does now, for 
the shores, particularly at the head of the harbor, 
were lined with wharves from which good sized 
vessels discharged their cargoes. It was in fact 
one of the principal ports of Bermuda and con- 
siderable trade was carried on here. Even now 
the extent of the ruins of several houses testify 
to their capacity in former times. All, however, 
now wears a look of desolation ; the mouldering 
walls with the carved portals are draped with the 
prickly cactus ; while gigantic paw paws and 
plaintains raise their leafy crowns above the whole. 
This is a central spot from which to visit the love- 
ly scenery of this neighborhood, and it has al- 
ways been considered a good site for a hotel ; 
Overhanging the gateway to Mr. Musson's resi- 
dence is the largest mahogany tree in Bermuda. 
This tree is thirty years old, the trunk seven feet in 
circumference, spreading out, when about four feet 
from the ground, into numerous and graceful bran- 
ches ; it is nearly flat at the top ; the leaf is of a dark 
and glossy green. 



102 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

HARRINGTON SOUND, 

which lies north east of Flatt's Harbor, probably 
possesses in itself and its surroundings more pic- 
turesque scenery than any other locality in the is- 
lands. Its surface is usually calm, owing to its land- 
locked position, and a boating excursion on its 
waters, especially about the shores of Trunk Island 
will reveal many submarine wonders to the eye. 
Its northern shore, westward of Bailey's Bay 
church, presents a series of high cliffs, in many 
places quite inaccessible, much to the satisfaction of 
numerous tropic birds, which here, annually, and in 
perfect security make their nesting place and rear 
their young. From the water the high cliff known 
as the " Devil's Head'' presents a fine appearance, all 
ragged and torn as its face is by the storms of many 
winters. From out its numerous crevices spring 
dwarf trees and shrubs, whose only holdfast ap- 
pears to be the solid rock on which they grow : 
while circling around its shattered brow, the tropic 
birds lazily float on their ambient wings mingling 
their plaintive cries with the sounds of the rippling 
wavelets which dash on the rock-bound shore a 
hundred feet below. 

At the western end of the sound there is an out- 
let into Flatt's harbor through which the tide ebbs 
and flows with great impetus. This channel has 
from the earliest time been spanned by a bridge. 
A little to the eastward is the residence of Mr. 
Allen, the American consul ; during the war of the 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 100 

rebellion he rendered his government great and im- 
portant service, and his berth here during that 
period was anything but a bed of roses, for as these 
islands were a base from whence the blockade 
runners drew their supplies, he was regarded by 
that fraternity and their sympathizers here, in the 
light of a spy upon their movements. During the 
visit of the Florida he was attacked b}^ some of the 
crew and nearly killed ; so strong was the feeling 
against him that he could not obtain any other 
place to lodge in except his office. 

There are two roads around Harrington Sound, 
the north and the south roads, both roads connect 
with the causeway leading to St. Georges's. The 
north road is a fine ocean drive of about three 
miles, passing by Shelly Bay, a cluster of rocks 
called '* The Stags," Crawl Point and Bailey's Bay. 
Going by the south road around Harrington Sound, 
you pass the fine residences of Mrs.Wm. Whitney, 
— ^Villa Mount Clair and Monticello, — -about a mile 
beyond you will come to the 

DEVIL'S HOLE, 

or Neptune's Grotto, between which and the ocean 
there is a subterranean communication. Fish caught 
at the most favorable seasons of the year are kept 
here until wanted for use. There are many varie- 
ties of fish, and the spectacle is as pleasing as it is 
novel, and for years it has been one of the lions of 
Bermuda. The fish pound had originally been a 



104 



STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 



cavern, the rpof of which fell in before the advent 
of man on these islands. Here will be found a 
stock of gropers and sundry other fish which 
swim about and can be seen as if in an aquarium. 
The lovely angel fish, well named indeed, will be 




THE DEVIL'S HOLE. 



observed disporting itself with graceful motion as- 
cending and descending in the clear waters, as if 
proud of its splendid livery of blue, green and 
gold. The gropers are easily recognizable, as 
they crowd together with open mouths in hopes of 
a feed when the visitor arrives. Strange tales are 
told of the voracity of these finny monsters, of unfor- 
tunate dogs slipping in and being speedily devoured, 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 105 

and if the visitor should come to the place when 
the gropers are hungry, and dip the end of his boot 
or pocket handkerchief among the gaping throng, 
he will soon become convinced that they are a fear- 
ful lot of creatures to deal with. 

Following the road leading from the Devil's Hole, 
skirting the shore of Harrington Sound, at a dis- 
tance of about two miles the visitor will come to 

PAYNTER VALE, 

where snugly ensconced in a grove of fine old trees 
lie all that remains of the old homestead of the 
Paynter family. Years ago it presented a far differ- 
ent aspect, for the house was capacious, and the gar- 
den and shubbery adorned with well kept walks 
and lawns, while a neat boundary wall ran along the 
public road the whole extent of the estate. Now 
how changed it all appears ; the house a complete 
ruin, with ferns growing out of the crevices, and 
bananas, paw-paws and cedars, hemming in its 
remains on every side. Near what was formerly 
the principal entrance gate stands a magnificent 
fiddle-wood tree. It was brought from Barbados 
about the year 1829, and planted here. Under 
Its lofty and wide spreading branches a cool, refresh- 
ing breeze is nearly always to be felt. 

A little to the east of the house, an avenue of tall, 
tapering cedar trees leads to the old burial place of 
the family, which has recently been covered over 
with blocks of stone to prevent desecration. Climb- 
ing "Paynter's Hill" near by, which is quite steep. 



106 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

the visitor finds himself in full view of Harrington 
and Flatt's Bridge and village in the distance, 
while a little higher he will find a patch of red 
ground, on which it has been said nothing in 
the shape of vegetation has ever been known to 
grow. About eighty yards northward of this patch, 
and situated in the adjoining wood, is a small cave 
known as ** Chalk Cave," in which an old negro 
woman lived many years, and kept a pig in a sty 
at the entrance. On returning and recrossing the 
red patch, there will be seen on the left hand a 
deep hollow called "Plantation Hole," in which 
coffee, myrtle, wild cherry, fiddle-wood and other 
trees are growing and entwining their branches 
together. This is a charming spot and well worth 
the trouble of descending in order to look at the 
coffee trees growing in a state of nature. 

After leaving this cavernous depression and 
ascending the steep hill above for a short distance 
the visitor will come suddenly in view of Castle 
Harbor with all its lovely scenery lying at his feet. 
Descending the slope before him and arriving at 
the shore he will find himself near the Government 
Limestone Quarry, from which large blocks of 
compact stone have been taken for building fortifi- 
cations, etc., this is the oldest and hardest limestone 
on the island. Turning to the right he will see a 
house now used as a canteen, which was built by 
Captain John Paynter abou^ the year 1750, for the 
storage of cargoes, and opposite which his vessel 
anchored. About seventy yards to the south-east 





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CocoANUT Palms. 



BERMUDA GUIDE, 107 

of the storehouse is a cave called '* Cooper's Hole," 
and well worth the visit. This was used as a store- 
house also when the other was full. Return- 
ing northward along the margin of the water, the 
visitor will perceive a current of water rushing 
almost under his feet, which is supposed to flow 
under the land from Harrington Sound. Still con- 
tinuing northward he will soon arrive at a rail 
fence, which, if he follows along through ferns, 
myrtle, orange, etc., will bring him to another deep 
hollow called '* Little Plantation Hole." At one 
time this was covered with citron and orange and 
lemon trees, but very few now remain, owing to the 
great disease of 1854 ^^^^ destroyed nearly all the 
orange trees on the island. Still following the 
fence, he will again arrive at the ruins of the old 
Paynter homestead from whence he started. Just 
outside of the entrance gate and across the public 
road on the shore of Harrington Sound, will be 
seen a cavern in the cliff, which goes by the name 
of * 'Shark's Hole." If a boat can be obtained, this 
cavern is well worth investigating, for several spe- 
cies of sea weed are to be obtained on the rocks on 
either side ; while in the recess of the cave beyond 
by the aid of a torch, a beautiful collection of 
stalactites can be seen. 

The land which lies between Paynter Vale and 
the south shore, including the long narrow neck 
which stretches out eastward to Castle Island, is 
known as Tucker's Town. Why such a name 
should have been given it is hard to imagine, for no 



108 STARirS ILLUSTRATED 

town was ever known to be established there, and 
the neighborhood has always been considered the 
most secluded in Bermuda. Coming back to the 
main road again and following it in nearly a north- 
westerly course, for a distance of about a mile, the 
visitor will come to 

WALSHINGHAM. 

Few if any visitors to these islands ever leave them 
without paying one or more visits to this classic 
locality, through whose sylvan glades the bard of 
Erin loved to roam, and who has immortalized it in 
his musical verse. 

It was in 1803 that Moore visited Bermuda, hav- 
ing been presented with the lucrative post of Register 
of the Court of Vice Admiralty; but the "distant 
and secluded isle " was too far from the busy world 
of gaiety he had left behind in the metropolis of 
England, and after a few months he took his depar- 
ture, leaving a deputy to do his work. 

The grounds about Walshingham are by far the 
most picturesque in the islands ; presenting a singu- 
lar chaotic appearance of broken rocks, caverns and 
ponds. The whole region is singularly attractive. 
Mimic lakes reflecting the varied hues of the rock 
which inclose them, with trees overhanging their 
banks, teem with fish wonderful in variety and color, 
whose motions are the ideal of grace. By-paths 
through the tangled wildwood lead one through a 
wilderness of beauty, here may be found species of 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 100 

plants unknown in any other part of the islands ; 
the coffee tree grows luxuriantly and a climbing 
jasmine overruns both rocks and trees profusely. 
Nature has been lavish of her gifts all through this 
locality, and it is geologically one of the oldest 
sections of Bermuda, the soir is different to that of 
other parts, being of a bright red, and analysis 
proves it to differ also in its nature. 



WALSHINGHAM CAVES. 

No whereon the islands are the caves more beauti- 
ful than in Walshingham. It is fitting that nature 
should have her temples in such a place. Humility 
is one of the conditions of entrance to them, and so 
bending low, and making a slight descent, the visitor 
is soon standing in a room from whose arched roof 
hang large stalactites. Artificial lights bring out 
each in its full proportions and one contemplates 
with wonder this strange architecture, considering 
the ages it has endured. In a second cavern near 
by, and which is much more spacious, there is a 
beautiful sheet of water, clear as crystal and of an 
emerald tint, on which no boat has ever yet been 
launched to explore the unknown regions of dark- 
ness beyond. Possibly many a cave yet remains to 
be discovered, which will far exceed in grandeur 
anything now known ; but the present caves are 
quite suificent to afford as much toilsome travel as 
the visitor would probably like to undergo. 



110 STAI^K'S ILLUSTRATED 

These caves are very curious and beautiful, from 
the roofs innumerable stalactites, perfectly white, 
often several yards long, and coming down to the 
delicacy of knitting needles, hang in clusters, and 
whenever there are any continuous cracks in the 
roof or wall, a graceful, soft looking curtain of white 
stalactite falls and often ends in deep water.- Stal- 
agmites also rise up in pinnacles and fringes through 
the water, which is so exquisitely still and clear 
that it is somtimes difficult to tell where the marble 
tracery ended and its reflected image began. 

CAUSEWAY. 

Until 1 87 1, the only way of reaching St. George's 
from the main island, was by boat across the nar- 
row entrance from the north side into that part of 
Castle Harbor called "The Reach." During heavy 
northerly gales, the passage was extremely haz- 
ardous, and during the height of a gale and gen- 
erally for some hours after it had ceased, owing to 
the heavy swell rushing in here, all communica- 
tion was stopped, greatly to the inconvenience of 
the inhabitants, civil and military. To the great 
delight of all classes, the present causeway was 
constructed. It commences at a place on the 
Walshingham side called the Blue Hole, in which 
several kinds of fish may be seen, from here to 
Stock's Point on the St. George side the whole dis- 
tance is nearly two miles, it is connected with 
Stock's Point by an iron swing bridge 123 feet long. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. Ill 

which spans the channel through which moderate 
sized craft proceed to St. George's Harbor from the 
north side, thereby saving the lengthened voyage 
all around the north side of St. George's Island. 
The iron bridge was constructed in England and 
sent out in pieces, it revolves on a circular pier, 
leaving two water passages for boats fifty feet wide. 
That part of the causeway which runs along Long 
Bird Island, is especially smooth and good to travel 
upon, and is not so much exposed to the force of 
heavily northerly gales as that part which connects 
Walshingham with the island, the passage of which 
in heavy weather is sometimes alarming to pas- 
sengers in uncovered vehicles, the water dashing 
in sheets completely over the way. The work 
on the causeway was commenced 1867, and 
opened free of all tolls with public rejoicings in 
1871. The whole cost was about £32,000, of 
which the Imperial Government contributed one 
fourth. 



MULLET BAY. 



After crossing the swing bridge to Stock's Point, 
an irregular promontory, and forming its western 
shore, Mullet Bay is reached, one of the many pretty 
little inlets with which the islands are everywhere 
indented. In its centre will be seen a small island, 
which is now connected with the land by a wooden 
bridge. A short distance beyond Mullet Bay the 



1^2 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

visitor will pass a lofty hill on which is Fort 
St. Geor(:re. From here the view is very fine, the 
whole region is singularly attractive. Nature has 
been lavish of her gifts all through this locality, 
there are few other views in Bermuda comparable 
with it. 

In the view taken from Fort St. George looking 
east, there can be seen the harbor of St. George's, 
with Ordinance Island in the centre, and the town 
of St. George's on the left, while in the background 
the barracks can be seen crowning the hill on the 
left, and the entrance to the harbor on the right. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
ST. GEORGE'S. 

This was once the chief town of the island and 
residence of the governor. The house of assembly 
and all public offices concentrated here, and most 
of the trade of the islands passed through its harbor, 
but from its position it was considered unsuitable 
for the capital ; so Hamilton, which is more centrally- 
situated, was chosen in its stead about the latter part 
of the last century. 

The situation of the town of St. George's is very 
fine, rising up in steep acclivities from the sea and 
crowned by Fort George. Its narrow streets and 
oddly shaped houses give the town a charm that 
is quite distinctive. York street is but ten feet 
wide, and with its gardens crowded with semi- 
tropical vegetation it is like an Oriental picture. 

The harbor is commodious, w^ell fortified and far 
more easily accessible than that of Hamilton, it is 
so extensive that the whole EngHsh Navy might 
ride easily upon its waters. 

A line of forts are built along the north side of St. 
George's, viz., Fort Albert, Fort Victoria, Fort 



114 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

Catherine, and Fort George, — the quaint picturesque 
old town seems tc bristle with forts everywhere. 
Strangers are not allowed inside of the forts, in 
fact there are very few Bermudians to the *' manor" 
born that have ever been inside these works, which 
are said to be among the strongest in the world. 
The narrow streets, constructed when carriages 
were unknown on the islands, wind their narrow 
way up the hill on which much of the town is built ; 
with the gardens hemmed in by high walls, over 
which hang different species of cacti, with paw- 
paws, bananas, and plantains towering above, and 
here and there the graceful form of the palmetto 
surmounting the whole, and will constantly remind 
the visitor of a Spanish or Eastern town. 

One of the objects of interest at St. George's is 
the old parish church, it contains several marble 
tablets remarkable for their age and quaint phraseol- 
ogy of former days. The communion plate of 
massive silver was presented by King William III. 
in 1684, and the silver christening basin was the 
gift of Governor William Browne, a loyalist from 
Salem, Massachusetts, who was appointed gover- 
nor here in 1782. 

Close by is the Public Garden, where one can sit 
under the date palms one hundred and fifty years 
old ; here, in the ivy-covered wall at the left of the 
lower gate, is the monument of Sir George Somers, 
after whom the town is named. Only his heart is 
buried here, his body is buried in Dorsetshire, Eng- 
land. In the wall above the old monument is a 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 115 

white marble tablet, erected by Governor Sir J. H. 
Lefroy_, bearing the following inscription : 

Near this spot 

Was interred, in the year 1610, the Heart of the 

Heroic Admiral, 

Sir GEORGE SOMERS, Kt., 

Who nobly sacrificed his Life 

To carry succor 

To tne infant and suffering plantation, 

Now 

The State of Virginia. 

To preserve his Name to Future Ages 

Near the scene of his memorable shipwreck of 

1609, 

The Governor and Commander-in-Chief 

Of this Colony for the time being caused this 

tablet to be erected. 

1876. 



ST. DAVID'S ISLAND. 

Taking a boat at St. George's a very pleasant 
trip can be taken to St. David's Island and light- 
house, the scenery in all parts of the island, espec- 
ially on the side looking over Castle Harbor, is no 
where to be surpassed. It is here that some of the 
best arrow-root to be obtained in Bermuda is grown 
and manufactured. The light-house on St. David's 
Head is worth visiting ; it is built of the native stone, 
has a white, fixed light, but is not of as great a 
height as Gibb's Hill light-house ; there is a fine view, 
however, to be obtained from it of the ocean and 
surrounding country. 



116 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

CASTLE HARBOR. 

A very pleasant day may be spent in sailing 
about this charming sheet of water, the beauties of 
which on a bright sunny day, with sufficient breeze 
to ripple the azure waters are not to be excelled in 
any part of the world. Whichever way you look 
the eye falls upon scenes of the most picturesque 
character, diminutive in size it is true, yet neverthe- 
less miniature gems of nature. A visit should be 
made to Castle Island, which commands the 
entrance to the harbor, and on which there is the 
ruins of what many years ago was a fort of some 
importance, called the "King's Castle," a view of 
whicli is shown in Smith's engraving inserted in 
this work. Southampton Island is the next place 
to attract attention, this was also fortified for the 
same purpose as Castle Island, between which is 
the narrow entrance channel to Castle Harbor. 
Near this island on the south side is ** Gurnet 
Rock," an isolated mass, being almost the only spot 
in Bermuda where that rare bird the dusky 
shearwater breeds, which is evidently the curious 
bird mentioned by Captain John Smith, under 
the name of the "cahow". The rock is almost 
unapproachable owing to the heavy swell of the 
ocean, and many are the escapes that have occured 
when parties have attempted to land there. After 
passing Southampton Island, the western shore 
of Nonsuch Island comes into view. This island 
now belongs to the Military Department. 



BERMUDA GUIDE, 117 

Cooper's Island next claims attention, and visitors 
will not regret landing and roaming about it for an 
hour or two, as there is much to be seen and many 
shells and sea weeds to be found ; and if the boat 
be provided with a pair of long handled nippers, 
any quantity of specimens may be obtained from 
beneath the v^aters of the harbor. 



CHAPTER IX. 

SOUTH ROAD. 

Supposing the visitor to have chosen the south side 
road by vv^hich to return to Hamilton, it can be taken 
either at Tucker's Town or at the Devil's Hole. 
After proceeding about two miles along this road to 
the westward, the visitor will perceive in a hollow 
below, screened from the ocean by small hills covered 
with cedar, a long narrow lake considered one of 
the pretty scenes of Bermuda, it is known as Penis- 
ton's Pond, the property for some miles around 
having been in the possession of the Peniston family 
for many years. The waters of Peniston's Pond 
are quite brackish, having communication with the 
outer sea by underground channels. In heavy 
southerly storms a perfect stream of water is forced 
over the shore rocks at the eastern end, giving it 
the appearance of a natural water course. On the 
southern shore of the pond, about its centre, and 
within a few paces of the water, are wells, used for 
the purpose of watering cattle, the water they contain, 
like all similar excavations throughout the islands, 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 



119 



is fresh above, but brackish beneath, as soon as the 
sea level is reached. This is of course owing to the 
reason that fresh water is lighter than salt. 




^t - ':^:-^i 



SPANISH ROCK. 

A few yards east of the cattle wells spoken of, 
just at the base of the shore hills, an open grassy 

patch will be seen. After 
passing this, proceed up 
through the cedar grove in 
front, and immediately at 
the top a little pathw^ay 
will be seen leading to 
the cliff beyond, care must 
be taken on approaching 
this precipice, for if a 
false step be made there 
is nothing to prevent a fall of fully one hundred 
feet into the foaming waters below. 

The flattened rock on which the inscription sup- 
posed to be made by the Spaniard, Ferdinand 
Camelo, is cut, is a little below the crest of the cliff, 
and will soon be observed by the number of names- 
carved upon it by visitors to this memorable spot. 
The following cut is a faithful representation of it, as 
it now appears, but it is feared that some ruthless 
hand, judging from the reckless manner in which 
names are now cut around it, will sooner or later 
destroy this extremely interesting relic of antiquity. 



120 STAB/C'S ILLUSTRATED 

Returning again to the wells on Peniston Pond, 
and following the road the visitor will pass Smith's 
Parish Church, w^hich was erected about twenty- 
five years ago. This edifice was preceeded by an 
old antiquated structure, and having no tower the 
bell was hung in the branches of an old cedar growing 
close by, until a heavy gale prostrated the tree, and 
the church became dangerous to enter. The old 
bell possesses a fine sonorous tone, although small 
in size. How it came to Bermuda is not known, 
but from an inscription on its rim in French, we 
learn that it was cast at Nantes, in the year 1771. 
It probably came from some of the French West 
India Islands, during the great war at the com- 
mencement of the present century, when sacrilege, 
pillage and slaughter were freely indulged in. 



MODEL FARM. 



Just at the west end of the graveyard will be 
seen a gateway leading up the hill in a southerly 
direction; this leads to the "model farm," estab- 
lished during the administration of Governor Reid 
for the purpose of exhibiting to the islanders the 
modern system of agriculture. Before this farm 
was established, the plough was almost unknown 
on the islands, and the heavy English hoe of slavery 
days was considered the best implement to till the 
small amount of soil then devoted to cultivation. 
Two agriculturists were brought from Scotland, 
Messrs. Fox and McGall, to superintend the farm. 



BERMUDA GUI ED. 121 

Scotch ploughs of the most improved patterns and 
various other implements were imported, and the 
cedar and sage scrub was soon transformed into 
fertile meadows and waving corn fields. 

While Governor Reid was in Bermuda the farm 
prospered ; but after his departure, no one taking 
an interest in the good work, and the superin 
tendents becoming discontented, and at last leaving 
the island, it was suffered to remain idle for several 
years, and was at last sold into private hands. 
But although this model farm did not prove success- 
ful, yet there is no doubt that from this date culti- 
vation began to increase, to a great extent owing to 
the introduction of improved agriculturial imple- 
ments, and the progress has been maintained to the 
present day. At the bottom of one of the fields on 
a knoll overlooking the water is the remains ol 
Smith's Fort, one of the ancient fortifications shown 
in Smith's engraving. 



SMITH'S MARSH, 



About a quarter of a mile westward from the 
farm commences Smith's Marsh, a long narrow 
hollow, filled with sedges, rushes, palmettos and 
scrub. It is always wet, more particularly at high 
tides, as it has underground communication with 
the outer sea. In former days this hollow was 
higher than at present, as the presence of giant 
cedars now lying prostrate under the boggy soil 
sufficiently testify. The cultivated ground border 



122 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

ing the marsh is more fertile than that of the 
upland, owing to the moisture it contains, which, 
even in times of great drought, never wholly leaves it. 

On the summit of the hill, northward of the 
marsh, will be observed a large stone building, 
formerly known as Devonshire College, but lately 
converted into a Lunatic Asylum. As a college it 
certainly ought to have succeeded, for there is a 
great want felt in the islands for such an establish- 
ment. Near the entrance to the college grounds 
on the right hand, will be observed an old ruin. 
This is all that remains of the school house that was 
erected when Richard Norwood was schoolmaster. 

About two miles from Devonshire Bay along the 
coast westward, is Hungry Bay, an excellent place 
for the visitor to gain some idea of what a tropical 
mangrove swamp must be. Fortunately the denizens 
of the Bermudian mangrove swamps are not the 
dangerous creatures usually found in like localities 
in the tropics. Near the entrance to this bay on the 
eastern side, will be seen the ruins of a building 
formerly used as a magazine. A battery existed 
here also. Regaining the public road again, the 
visitor is now only a mile or so from Hamilton, the 
point of departure. 



THE MIDDLE ROAD. 

There is a public highway not often traversed by 
strangers, leading from Hamilton through the par- 
ishes of Devonshire and Smith's to the Flatt's which 



BERMUDA trUIBB. 123 

possesses some interesting and very pretty scenery a\ 
intervals. About a mile from tow^n on this road 
the military station at Prospect is passed on the 
left hand and about another mile's distance onw^ard 
lies Brackish Pond an extensive morass, on the 
skirt of which grow some fine specimens of cedar 
trees, while amongst the close thicket of shrubs and 
palmettos which tenant its interior, some giant ferns 
and aquatic plants of divers species occur, which 
are not seen in the open landscape. 

Near the skirts of this pond, surrounded by some 
of the finest cedars on the island, stands the old 
antiquated structure which formerly served as the 
parish church of Devonshire. It has not been 
used since the new church which stands near by 
was completed. There is an old cedar tree stand- 
ing in the churchyard which is said to be the oldest 
now existing in the islands. 



CHAPTER X. 

HAMILTON TO SOMERSET AND 
IRELAND ISLAND. 

We will now suppose the visitor is desirous 
of proceeding in a westerly direction to see the 
other portion of the group. Let him proceed along 
Front street going to the eastward, skirting along 
the shores of Hamilton Harbor, and before he 
arrives at the end of the harbor he will perceive 
four fine specimens of the cabbage palm, with 
trunks as smooth as if shaved, and bearing above 
the curious bunch of foliage, which, from its resem- 
blance to the vegetable in question, has given the 
tree its name. It is a common tree in the moun- 
tains of the West India Islands, where it rears its 
head far above those of the surrounding forest trees. 
Several specimens of the cocoanut palm are also 
to be seen here, as well as numerous shrubs, all 
natives of the West Indies. The property on which 
they grow, which possesses a very prettily situated 
residence, embosomed in trees, belong to Mr. and 




ROYAI. PAI.MS. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 125 

Mrs. Reid. At the end of the wall, which skirts 
this property will be seen in a cottage garden a tree 
possessing to all appearance crimson leaves. This 
is the fire plant or burning bush and the gaily 
covered leaves will be found to be merely the 
elongated petals of the flower. At the bend of the 
road round the harbor head and immediately by 
the guard wall, in the dark mud several mangrove 
trees grow, having attached to the roots and lower 
parts numbers of an oyster-looking shell. 

A little farther on, on the right hand side of 
the road will be observed a fine tamarand tree stand- 
ing in a neat garden ; while on the left, on the side 
of a wall there is a hedge of the *' snuff* plant" which, 
when in flower, emits a peculiar odor. It is a 
native of the west coast of America, from Califonia 
to Peru. 



SAND HILLS. 



Passing along the main road the visitor will pass 
Paget Parish Church, built in 1796. The Paget 
sand hills are easily reached from the church, being 
not more than half a mile from it. This steile local- 
ity, which is an extremely wild and lonely spot, is 
well worth a visit, for here can be seen the mode 
adopted by nature to form Bermuda, as is described 
in the article on ** geology" in this work. Here 
can be seen the drifting sand gradually increasing 
its deposits and elevating the land, thereby overcom 
ing cedar groves and cultivated ground, and in one 



126 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

place even, the dwelling of man, the chimney of the 
cottage alone rises above the sand to show the posi- 
tion of the house. On the western side of the sand 
hills there is now a plateau of hardened drift sand, 
forming gradually into rock. 

At the foot of these sand hills near the shore, runs 
a charming stretch of sandy beach. At low water 
within wading distance of the beach, will be seen 
a series of *' boilers" as they are called; rounded 
masses of rock hollowed within, containing sea 
water, having their margins raised by the incrust- 
ing serpula. About a quarter of a mile east of the 
sand hills are the Royal Engineer Quarries, from 
whence the most compact stone to be found in the 
islands is procured, for the purpose of building for- 
tifications, and other government work. The stone 
taken at this spot is extremely hard and durable, 
and is more of the nature of mountain limestone 
than any other to be found in the group. It is 
supposed that this locality is the oldest of Bermu- 
dian land. Returning to the public road a little 
beyond Paget Church, the next object to attract 
attention will be the prettily situated church of 
Warwick, which overlooks a little lake known as 
" Warwick Pond." The scenery in the immediate 
neighborhood is very fine ; hills clothed with ever- 
green cedars to their summits, and having at their 
base the picturesque little lake, reflecting the foliage 
on its calm unruffled surface. 

About a mile beyond Warwick Church occurs a 
very pretty little inlet of the Great Sound, bear- 



BERMUDA GUIDE, 127 

ing the name of Hearn Bay. Some of the houses 
in this locality have an antiquated appearance, and 
were evidently built many years ago. After leav- 
ing this quiet little place, and proceeding a mile or 
so futher on the road, the tovi^ering form of 

GIBE'S HILL LIGHT-HOUSE 

appears on the ridge of a hill to the left, there is a 
road leading up to it, and carriages can proceed 
close up to the tower. This commanding structure, 
possessing one of the most pov^erful lights to be seen 
in any part of the world, is situated on the summit 
of Gibb's Hill, the highest point of land in the 
western portion of Bermuda. The light itself stands 
three hundred and sixty-two feet above sea 
level, it is a revolving light and appears every 
fifty-four seconds ; from an elevation of only ten i^ox 
above water it can be seen a distance of twenty-five 
miles, while at forty feet it can be easily distin- 
guished thirty miles off. The tower, which is of 
cast iron, was constructed in London, and sent out 
m plates, the last of which was put into place Oct. 
9» 1845. The cost exclusive of the light machinery 
was £5,500, all of which the Imperial Government 
paid on the understanding that the colony would 
furnish the necessary funds for lighting, repairing, 
etc., which has always been granted. 

A splendid view can be obtained from the gallery 
of this light, the finest of course in the islands, and 
one wnich no visitor to Bermuda should fail to see. 
It is a bird's eye view of the whole group, nothing 



128 STARICS ILLUSTRATED 

IS left out, the whole cluster of islets lies at our feet, 
set as it were in a plane of azure with emerald tints. 
The view shown in the first part of this work was 
taken from this point. 

There are some very pretty little coves under the 
light-house, having their shores irregularly indented 
by rocks, which in some places become detached 
from the cliffs above. 

Small indeed is the spot occupied by Bermuda on 
the wild waste of waters, and far removed from the 
nearest land ; nor is our feeling of security the 
more confirmed when stationed at the summit of 
this light-house to witness the efl?ect of some heavy 
gale ; when the rolling seas, which have been 
unimpeded in their course for hundreds of miles, 
thunder against the shore, and the force of the 
tempest makes the whole fabric vibrate to its very 
foundation. 

About half a mile from the light-house stands 
Port Royal, or Southampton Parish Church, in a 
very exposed situation near the verge of the cliflfs 
which overhang the south shore. There are some 
very interesting records belonging to this parish 
church, bearing date so far back as 1639. 



SOMERSET. 



Somerset bridge connects the island of Somerset 
or Sandy's with the main island. Immediately east 
of the bridge on the right hand, will be observed a 
large mansion in a grove of trees, known as * 'Bridge 



n 



7: 




BERMUDA GUIDE. 129 

House," it was formerly the homestead of the 
Tucker family. To the westward of the bridge, on 
a neck of land which protects the waters of Elis Har- 
bor • from the ocean swell, rises "Wreck Hill.** 
Here in days of yore, the inhabitants would con- 
gregate after a tempestuous night to look out for 
wrecks on the western reefs, which have always 
been considered the most dangerous of all the reefs 
surrounding the islands. 

Elis Harbor is a perfect little gem of an inlet, 
which to be seen in its greatest perfection should be 
visited on a bright sunny day, when its waters 
appear of the lightest emerald tint. But at any 
time it is beautiful ; so calm and peaceful does it lie 
surrounded by its rocky shores, clothed almost to 
the waters edge with the evergreen foliage of the 
scented cedar. About half a mile from here the 
visitor will pass the parish church of Somerset, 
formerly known as Sandy's. But little is known in 
regard to the old church which existed on the same 
spot prior to 1783. 

At the extremity of Somerset Island lies Man- 
grove Bay, so named from the number of those 
trees which formerly grew around its margin. The 
scenery here is very pretty, although the land is 
almost level with the water. On the other side of 
the neck of land which divides Mangrove Bay from 
ihe ocean lies a stretch of sandy beach well worth 
examining ; for as it lies open to the heavy westerly 
gales some fine specimens of sponges, shells and 
sea weeds are often cast ashore. 



130 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

IRELAND ISLAND. 

Waterford and Boaz Islands connect Somerset 
writh Ireland Island, their surfaces have been par- 
tially levelled by convict labor during the time that 
these islands were burdened by the presence of the 
worst of criminals transported from England. 

In the former island is situated the old burial 
ground of the convicts, where many a felon has 
found a last resting place far away from the scenes 
of his crime. On Boaz Island the principal bar- 
racks and stores for the convicts were established, 
but some were quartered at Ireland ; and when their 
number increased to too great an extent to allow 
of accommodation on land, they were distributed 
among old man-of-war hulks at anchor offshore. 

Probably the most important position in the Ber- 
mudas is Ireland Island ; which although not much 
more than a mile in length, or a quarter of a one in 
breadth, contains the dockyard and other establish- 
ments connected with the Royal Navy, a more 
extended description of which has been given in this 
work, in the article on '* Military and Navy," it 
being unnecessary to repeat it here. 

The ''Royal Naval Hospital" stands on a hill 
immediately above the dockyard, while beneath, 
occupying a large space of ground, prettily orna- 
mented by cedar groves and smooth grassy glades, 
is the Naval Cemetery. Here are several melan- 
choly memorials, some to officers and crews of men 
of war which sailed from Bermuda and were lost at 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 131 

sea; and others to young officers of the navy or 
army, whose lives were cut short ere they began 
their wordly career. 

There are three Admirals buried here, one of 
them, Sir Charles Paget, left Jamaica, in January 
1839, ^^ ^- ^' Steamer "Tartarus," to proceed to 
Bermuda for the benefit of his health ; he being ill of 
yellow fever at the time. But it is related that for 
five weeks the steamer could not find the islands, 
having no chronometers on board and being unable 
to make out the latitude. At last it finally arrived 
safely at its destination, but the voyage was too 
much for the admiral and only his mortal remains 
reached here. There is also a memorial stone to 
the memory of the officers and crew of H. M. 
Ships "Acorn" and " Tempest, " which acted as 
mail packets between Halifax and Bermuda and 
singular to relate, left their respective ports at the 
same time, and were never heard of afterwards. 

At the extremity of Ireland Island, and looking 
over the sea, stands a conspicuous building having 
a veranda running all around it. This was form- 
erly the "Commissioners House," and was built at 
the expense of the English government about 1828, 
at an expense of £90,000. It ceased to be used for 
a number of years and remained untenanted and 
fell into decay. Now it is used as quarters for the 
military stationed at Ireland Island. 

The anchorage ground opposite Ireland, on the 
east side, where several men-of-war are generally 
to be seen, is known as " Grassy Bay." 



132 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

TO IRELAND ISLAND BY WATER. 

In 1880, an English built steam launch was run 
between Hamilton and Ireland Island, this not prov- 
ing adequate, in 1882 the Moonedyne, a wooden 
steam yacht of good model, was purchased in New 
York, and skilfully brought to Bermuda, after a 
very rough voyage, and placed on this route. The 
most ample facilities are afforded visitors in this ves- 
sel of seeing the Somerset section of Bermuda, hither- 
to but little explored by visitors. Passing through 
*' One-Rock Passage," at the " Head of the Lane," 
you enter ** Great Sound," with "Grassy Bay " in 
the distance, and the anchorage ground off the 
dockyard, the sweep of the Somerset shore being 
a graceful curve. 

At Oxford, on the right, will be observed a 
monument erected by the 56th Regiment, when 
removed there during the yellow fever epidemic, 
made with rough tools, bayonets and iron hoops. 
As you approach Ireland Island, the most prom- 
inent objects to be seen are the Naval Superin- 
tendent's house to the westward, and the Com- 
missioner's house on East Point and "The Camber," 
a large artificial basin with strongly built piers, 
in which is the famous floating dock "Bermuda." 
The steamer makes two trips daily between 
Hamilton and Ireland Island. The visitor should 
take the morning trip and return in the after- 
noon, this will give ample time to see all the 
attractions there. 



CHAPTER XL 

THE ISLAND'S IN THE SOUND. 

The large sheet of water which is enclosed by the 
curve of the land running from Paget Parish to 
Ireland Island, is known as '*The Great Sound.'' 
It contains several islands, generally of small size, 
nearly all of which are wooded and are very pic- 
turesque. Tucker's Island, which lies close in shore 
near Somerset Bridge, is well worthy of a visit ; and 
the visitor should not omit to notice a lovely little 
cavern upon it. Grace, Ricket, Moses and Dar- 
rell's Islands, which run in a line with the pre- 
vious island are of small size, but are excellent 
places for camping. The latter island was formerly 
used as a quarantine station, and there is a grave- 
yard there in which are man}^ victims of small pox, 
the buildings were burnt some years ago and are 
now in ruins. Port's Island was also used as a quaran- 
tine, and possessed a hospital, in the graveyard 
many victims of yellow fever have found a resting 
place, and odd enough this island has always been 



134 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

a popular resort of picnic parties ; and the very 
apartments which the fever-stricken patients have 
lived and died in are often used for dancing. It is 
certainly a pretty spot, and the hard pine floors are 
smooth and large, and are excellent for dancing 
purposes, but an air of melancholy pervades the 
whole island. 

There are several monuments here which tell 
their own tale of sorrow and suffering. One of 
granite bears the following inscription, "In mem- 
ory of Messieurs Grateau, Surgeon of ' Ville 
Suzanne ' and nine of the French frigate L'Armide, 
who died of yellow fever in this island in August, 
1852, and whose remains are interred near this 
spot." 

Sheep Island, a long narrow strip to seaward of 
Port's Island, has also headstones to the memory of 
several soldiers who lie buried there. 

Marshall Island and Godet Island, lie east of the 
latter, and around their shores may be obtained 
many fine specimens of sponges, zoophytes, and 
small crustaceans. 

Long Island, to the seaward of Port's Island, has 
also headstones to the memory of several soldiers 
who are buried there. Fern Island is to the east- 
ward of the latter, and is the property of the Ber- 
muda Yacht Club ; it contains a building, and is 
much resorted to by members of the club, where 
turtle dinners, dancing and other festivities are in- 
dulged in. 



BERMUDA GUIED. 135 

ROYAL BERlvfuDA YACHT CLUB. 

The house of this Club is situated on Front street, 
and' from its veranda a fine view of the harbor and 
opposite hills of Paget and Port Royal can be 
obtained. The Club has about one hundred and 
twenty-five members and is under the patronage of 
Admiral H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. 
There are fourteen yachts owned by the members 
of the club. It is a social as well as a yachting 
organization. The Club House contains an excel- 
lent reading room, restaurant, sleeping accommoda- 
tions, billiard room, etc. Its members are com- 
posed of Bermudians of the highest social stand- 
ing, also many naval and military officers. Stran- 
gers can become honorary members of the club, and 
be entitled to all the privileges of same for a limited 
period of time, on being introduced by a member. 

To many visitors and the majority of the resi- 
dents, yachting amongst the islands and in the 
sound will always remain one of the principal 
attractions in Bermuda. 

The Bermudian yacht is peculiar to the island in 
shape and rig. They are carvel built, of the native 
red cedar, which is peculiarly suitable for the pur- 
pose, being buoyant and wonderfully durable. 
They are deeper and narrower in proportion to 
their length than the boats found in other waters. 
The cedar wood, when polished and varnished, has 
a handsome and effective appearance, and the 
yachts are consequently not often painted outside. 



136 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

In size the yachts vary from three to twelve tons. 
They are sloop rigged, without any gaff, the main- 
sail being *' leg-of-mutton" in shape, the other sails 
consist of a jib, (in bad weather a storm jib is 
used) a flying jib, a spinnaker, a topsail and 
occasionally a water sail underneath the boom, these 
four latter are used only in light weather. The 
peculiar rig of the yachts enables them to turn 
almost in their own length and to sail *' close- 
hauled" or near to the wind, to a degree unknown 
elsewhere. The intricacy of the channels among 
the reefs and between the numerous small islands 
renders this quality absolute indispensable. 

A programme for cruising is arranged period- 
ically, their races are very interesting, and the 
whole island partakes in the excitement, and every 
movement of the competitors is watched with crit- 
ical eye by the interested spectator. Prizes are 
given and eagerly competed for, and on such occa- 
sions it is quite a gala-day on the water. 

There is an amateur '' Dingey Club " which has 
done much to develope the taste for yachting among 
the youth of the place. These little boats called 
"dingeys" are rigged in the same way as the 
yachts, and of course great skill is needed in hand- 
ling them, for they carry an astonishing large 
amount of canvas and spars, when engaged in the 
regattas. 

It is scarcely possible to conceive a more beauti- 
ful sight than a boat race in Bermuda. The trim 
yachts dashing with headlong speed through the 




IT. 





¥ 



BERMUDA GUIDE. I37 

clear, sparkling water, with their varnished sides 
and snowy canvas glistening in the bright sunshine, 
make a picture of inexpressible grace and beauty. 
Yachts can be hired for $5.00 per day, that will 
accommodate from eight to ten persons comfortably, 
this price includes the services of a good boatman 
to take care of the yacht. Good fishing can be had 
almost everywhere, and there are many delightful 
spots on the numerous islands where camping can 
be enjoyed to the greatest perfection. It is well 
worth visiting Bermuda, if only to enjoy the exhila- 
rating delights of sailing, rowing, camping, fishing 
and out-door life generally. 



CHAPTER XII. 
BICYCLING IN BERMUDA. 

The first object that confronts the bicyclist after 
landing is the custom house, for although Ber- 
muda has the lowest duties of any of the British 
American Colonies, the average being only five 
per cent., yet in the matter of bicycles it is the 
highest, the duty being lo shillings on each bicycle, 
regardless of the fact that you intend taking it back 
with you in a few weeks, but the law of the island 
is imperative and no money is refunded. 

It is a good plan on landing to first procure the 
"Tourist Map of Bermuda," price two shillings. 
It is strongly bound in cloth covers, of convenient 
size to carry in the pocket, giving the principal 
roads and principal points of interest. It is the 
only road map published showing the parishes in 
colors. It is also advisable to furnish your wheel 
with a brake, for without it the best rider will find 
himself in imminent danger of breaking his neck 
in descending some of the fascinating hills. The 




Bermuda Road Scene. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 139 

best roads in Bermuda are made by the govern- 
ment and are composed entirely of the natural rock, 
which is simply cut through, planed to a level and 
then left to the action of the elements which rap- 
idly cement the particles together and makes the 
surface hard and compact. Repairs are seldom 
needed, and the heavy rainfalls, instead of wash- 
ing away the surfaces, are immediately absorbed 
by the porous rock, leaving the roads clean and 
dry fifteen minutes after a shower. From a sani- 
tary point of view, this porosity of the coral rock 
becomes an important feature, precluding as it 
does the formation of fresh water swamps of any 
great extent, and the accumulation of impurities 
of an offensive and deletorious nature. To a 
wheelman the roads of Bermuda are a never-fail- 
ing delight. The hills are moderate, in many 
places being avoided by long cuts through the solid 
coral rock ; there are but few on the island that the 
wheelman cannot climb with ease, and in many 
cases long level stretches extend for miles, the 
road winding in and out between oleander hedges 
and lily fields or along rocky shores. The cyclist 
as well as driver in a carriage must bear in mind 
that the rules of the road are the same in Bermuda 
as in England, and are different to those in the 
United States. In Bermuda the rule in meeting a 
vehicle or passenger is to keep to your left ; on be- 
ing overtaken while cycling, driving or walking 
do not deviate from your course, if you are well 



140 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

over to the margin of the road to your left. On 
overtaking another vehicle or traveler, keep to the 
right until passed and then go over to the left 
again. Much confusion and accidents are caused 
by American cyclists through ignorance of this rule 
of the road. Cyclists must not overtake foot-pass- 
engers without ringing their bell when at a reason- 
able distance. 

Every vehicle must carry a light after sundown ; 
if this rule is not observed the rider will lay himself 
liable to a fine. It will be w^ell not to scorch 
around corners or curves, or coast any hill until 
you have pedalled down it. Always ring your bell 
before turning corners or curves. 

There are no fogs, cold winds and sudden 
changes of temperature in Bermuda. All this to- 
gether with the fact that the climate is salubrious, 
but not like most southern climates, enervating, 
makes Bermuda particularly beneficial to one suf- 
fering from complaints prevalent in the Northern 
States in the winter time, and especially attractive 
to the bicyclist. 

Bermuda is the wheelman's paradise. On step- 
ping ashore from the steamer the air is so soft and 
fragrant and, think of it, over one hundred miles of 
hard, smooth roads that are not probaby surpassed 
the world over, and through the most beautiful and 
picturesque scenery that a nature-loving enthusiast 
could long for. Seldom does the bicyclist find a more 
varied and attractive locality than the island of 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 141 

Bermuda. There are wooded dells as secluded as 
if far remote from sea, where the mangrove grows 
and the aroma of the sage perfumes the air. There 
are dark avenues of cedars whose dense foliage 
shut out the sun. Here, on a rising knoll, an aris- 
tocratic cottage peers out from palmetto groves and 
clustering banana and pawpaws Hedges of olean- 
der in luxuriant bloom grow^ high above the lime- 
stone walls that gird the road and through the vista 
is caught a view of the blue ocean beyond ; then an 
abrupt turn in the road reveals an unobstructed 
view of a broad expanse of ocean, with snowy sails 
pencilled on the far horizon, and sparkling lines of 
foam that break over the coral reefs nearer shore. 
Here are rocks chafed into every imaginable fan- 
tastic shape by the angry waves which in storms 
dash far over the roadway. At intervals pieces of 
wreckage are strewn — relics of fated ships lured to 
destruction by the siren voices of sweet Bermuda, 
so beautiful w^hen the sea is calm. Romantic little 
bays are passed with houses perched upon the very 
shore, ornamental gardens shut in by sea walls, 
boat houses, bathing houses and jaunty yachts at 
anchor. 

Another tarn of the road inland brings a wonder- 
ful sight into view, something that can be seen in 
but few places in the world and once seen never 
forgotten. A field of thirty or forty acres of beau- 
tiful Easter lilies all in bloom stretch away to the 
distant w^ooded hillside whose dark background sets 



142 S TAJIK'S ILL US TJ? A TBI? 

forth in sharp relief the thousands of tall white 
graceful flowers that bend their pretty heads and 
sway gently to and fro in the soft fragrant breeze. 
And just beyond is a field of banana plants more 
curious than beautitul with great bunches of green 
fruit nearly hidden by the large coarse leaves. 

Such is one of the many delightful bicycle trips 
that can be taken in Bermuda, nowhere else can 
there be found, such a variety of scenery and such 
good roads within such a small place. 

It is not necessary for c}«clists to bring their 
wheels with them if they are going to make only a 
short stay, for machines of nearly every make can be 
hired in Hamilton , at very reasonable rates, two shill- 
ings per day, and less by the week. In such cases it 
is much cheaper to hire a machine than to own one, 
when the ten shillings duty, and the trouble and 
cost of transportation is taken into consideration. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

MASONIC LODGES. 

Freemasonry flourishes in Bermuda to a remark- 
able extent ; very few places in England or the 
United States can show such a number of lodges 
in proportion to the population as can be found 
here, this is probably due to the fact that it is a mil- 
itary and naval station. Masons visiting Bermuda 
should not fail to attend lodge while there, every 
attention will be shown visiting brethren, and they 
will be treated in the most hospitable manner. 
The work is somewhat different from what it is in 
the States and will therefore prove all the more in- 
teresting to the American visitor. Local records 
of Freemasonry show that the first Masonic Lodge 
established in Bermuda was Union Lodge No. 266, 
and was held in Crow Lane, Paget. Its warrant 
was dated 17th September, 1761. Lodge St. 
George, No. 200, meeting at St. George's, is the 
next oldest, its charter is dated 7th August, i797> 
and has continued its meetings for a century. 

The charter of Atlantic Phoenix Lodge is dated 
just two days later than that of Lodge St. George, 



144 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

being 9th August, 1797, though it is believed that 
the former lodge held the Jirst meeting, and the 
right of precedence is often laughingly contested 
at Masonic banquets. The first meeting was held 
in St. George's, in 1797. In 1801, it was removed 
to Flatts Village and remained there until the 25th 
of June, 1810, when it was removed to the *' Coffee 
House," Hamilton. The present Masonic Hall was 
built in 1848. 

Prince Alfred Lodge was originally named 
*' Somerset Lodge," and so called by many to this 
day. The charter is dated 28th September, 1801. 
Its name was changed to Prince Albert on the 8th 
of July, 1862. It originally met at "Young's 
House, Sandy's Point," 1801, and at Sussex Hall, 
Somerset, in 1813, and in 1845 in the Masonic Hall, 
Mangrove Bay. 

Loyalty Lodge was organized in 1817. On the 
4th of May in that year Brother R. Gillett and seven 
other Masons met to form a lodge. The first meet- 
ing was held under a dispensation from the provin- 
cial Grand Lodge of Bermuda, May 6th. On the 
23rd of September, a petition for a charter was for- 
warded to the Grand Lodge of England. The 
charter was received from the Grand Lodge on 
2nd of July, 1820, and Loyalty 712 was conse- 
crated at Lodge Point, Ireland Island. In 1857, a 
petition was submitted to the Admiralty praying 
for a site for a new Masonic Hall. A site was 
granted on the north side of Ireland Island, Janu- 
ary 13, where the present fine Masonic Hall now 
stands. 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 145 

Another interesting fact is the record of the Ber- 
muda Lodge, whose warrant is dated 2nd of Octo- 
ber, 1792. Its first meeting was held on 2nd of 
January, 1793, at Somerset Bridge. The lodge 
was not recognized by the other lodges in Bermuda, 
as they were working under a charter from the 
body known as Modern Masons. The lodge 
finally went out of existence in 1813. 

LODGES AND DATE OF MEETING. 

Atlantic Phcenix Lodge, No. 224, under the 
Grand Registry of England meets in the Masonic 
Hall, Hamilton, on the Tuesday preceding the full 
moon from October to June inclusive, except in De- 
cember, then on the third Tuesday. This is the 
oldest lodge in Bermuda, consecrated A. D., 1797. 

Prince Alfred Lodge, No. 233. Held under 
warrant of Grand Lodge of England. Meets in 
the Masonic Hall, Somerset, on the Wednesday 
preceding the full moon, except during the months 
of July, August and September at 7.30 p.m. 

Loyalty Lodge, No. 358. Held under war- 
rant of Grand Lodge of England. This lodge 
was constituted in 1817 and is one of the finest in 
Bermuda. Visiting brethren in Bermuda should 
not miss an opportunity of attending a meeting of 
this lodge. The meetings are held in the Masonic 
Hall, Ireland Island, on the Thursday following 
the full moon from October to June. 

Broad Arrow Lodge, No. 1890. Under war- 
rant of constitution of England. Meets in the 



146 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

Masonic Hall, Water street, St. George's, on the 
first Thursday in every month throughout the year. 
This lodge was founded in the year 1880. It con- 
sists chiefly of military members. Visitors are 
cordially invited to attend at all times. 

Trident Lodge, No. 2465. Held under war- 
rant of Grand Lodge of England, meets in Masonic 
Hall, Somerset. This lodge was constituted on 
the 22nd of May, 1893, and consists almost exclu- 
sively of naval brethren, its meetings are therefore 
to a certain extent governed by the movements of 
Her Majesty's North American and West Indian 
fleet. 

Unity Lodge, No. 209. Held under warrant 
of constitution from Grand Lodge of Ireland, or- 
ganized in 1880, meets in the Masonic Hall, Water 
street, St. George's, on the last Thursday in every 
month. It consists chiefly of military members. 

Hannibal Lodge, No. 224. Held under war- 
rant from Grand Lodge of Ireland. Constituted 
in 1866, meets occasionally, in Queen street, St. 
George's. 

Lodge St. George, No. 200. Held under 
warrant from Grand Lodge of Scotland, constituted 
in 1797, meets at St. George's on the first Tuesday 
after every full moon except when full moon falls 
on Tuesday, then it meets on that day. The vol- 
ume of the Sacred Law in use in this lodge is over 
200 years old. The widow of the late Provincial 
Grand Master W. C. Hyland, Mayor of St. 
George's, presented this lodge with an antique Ma- 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 147 

sonic pitcher which is quite unique. This jug was 
found among Brother Hyland's masonic antiquities 
and was labelled "Masonic Pitcher, obtained in 
Sicily during the Peninsular War." The jug is 
most interesting as the diagrams on each side prove 
it to be a "Finch" jug, designed in accordance 
with the spurious Freemasonry of the notorious 
Finch. We are not aware of the existence of 
another specimen. 

Civil and Military Lodge, No. 726. Con- 
stituted under the Grand Lodge of Scotland in the 
year 1886, meets in City Hall, Hamilton, on the 
first Monday in every month at 7.30 p.m. By 
special authority, the Mark Master degree under 
Scottish rite, is conferred in this lodge. 

Mark Masters Lodge, "Loyalty," No. 295. 
Held under the Grand Registry of England, 
Wales, etc. This lodge meets in the Masonic 
Hall, Ireland Island, on the first Tuesday in the 
months of January, March, May and November. 
Until January, 1882, there was no English Mark 
Master Mason's Lodge in Bermuda ; since then 
nearly 300 M. M.'s have been advanced to that de- 
gree under the English constitution in these 
Islands. 

Mark Masters Lodge, "Royal George," 
No. 456. Held under warrant of constitution from 
the Grand Lodge, of England, Wales, etc., meets 
in Masonic Hall, Water Street, St. George's, on the 
third Thursday in every month except July, August 
and September. This Mark Lodge was consti- 



148 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

tuted on the i6th of February, 1893, and has since 
taken the place of Hannibal Mark Lodge, all of 
the members of the latter having affiliated with 
Royal George. The warrant of this lodge bears 
the autograph of His Royal Highness, the Prince 
of Wales. 

Royal Ark Mariners, '* Royal Edw^ard 
Albert Lodge," No. 456. Held under warrant 
of constitution from the Grand Mark Masters 
Lodge of England, Wales, etc. Meets in Masonic 
Hall, Water St., St. George's, on the third Thurs- 
day in every month except July, August and Sep- 
tember, at 8.30 P.M. This Lodge is moored to 
Royal George Mark Lodge, and was consecrated 
on the 15th November, 1894, and has the honor of 
being the pioneer of Royal Ark Masonry in these 
islands. 

Holy Royal Arch Chapter, "Royal Victo- 
ria," No. 358. Held under warrant from the Grand 
Royal Arch Chapter of England, signed by the 
Earl of Zetland, and dated February 2nd, 1853. 
This Chapter is open quarterly, namely, on the 
evenings of Tuesday immediately preceding the 
full moon in the months of March, June, Septem- 
ber and December, in Masonic Hall, Ireland 
Island. 

Holy Royal Arch Chapter, "Royal Ed- 
V7ARD," No. 1890. Held under warrant of constitu- 
tion from Grand Royal Arch Chapter of England, 
which bears the autograph of H. R. H. the Prince 
of Wales. This Chapter meets in Masonic Hall, 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 149 

Water street, St. George's on the third Wednesday 
in the months of Jariuar}^ March, June and De- 
cember at 7 -30 P-M. 

Holy Royal Arch Chapter, "Atlantic," 
No. 195. Under warrant of Supreme Grand Chap- 
ter of Scotland. Meets in Masonic Hall, Hamilton, 
on the Tuesday following the full moon in the 
months of March, June and December and on the 
23rd of September in every year. The most ex- 
cellent and marked degrees are conferred in this 
Chapter under the Scottish charter. 

Holy Royal Arch Chapter, "Hannibal," 
No. 224. Held under warrant of constitution from 
the Grand Chapter of Ireland, constituted in 1880. 
This chapter meets on the third Thursday in De- 
cember in Masonic Hall, Water street, St. George's, 
for the election and installation of officers, and at 
such other times as the principals deem expedi- 
ent. This Chapter does very little work, having 
been almost superseded by Royal Edward Chapter 
under the English constitution. 

Rose Croix Chapter, "Bermuda Chapter of 
H. R. D. M." Regular meetings on the 8th and 22d 
of August in every year, and at such other times 
as the M. W. S. may deem expedient. The 
m.eetings are held in Masonic Hall, Hamilton. 

Knights Templar, "Bermuda Preceptory," 
No. 38. Held under the Great Priory of England 
and Wales, meets in Masonic Hall, Hamilton, the 
first Friday of the months March, June, November 
and December, at such hours as the M. E. P. shall 
appoint. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE PRESS IN BERMUDA. 

The following is a brief description of the news- 
papers published in Bermuda, during the past hun- 
dred years. 

The first newspaper published here was issued in 
1784, and was styled the '* Bermuda Gazette," J. 
Stockdale printer, St. George's. On the first page 
was a copy of'* The Definite Treaty between Great 
Britain and the United States of America." 

The paper met with fair success until the death 
of Stockdale in 1808, when it passed into the hands 
of his daughters, and was continued by them. In 
1816, with the 1,616 number the publication of the 
Bermuda Gazette at St. George's ceased. The 
publication was transferred to Hamilton, under the 
name of '*The Bermuda Gazette and Hamilton 
and St. George's Weekly Advertiser," Free and 
Loyal, Charles Rollin Beach publisher, (who mar- 
ried Sarah Stockdale.) 

Beach's relations with the governor were far from 
being cordial, and probably on this account he sold 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 151 

his plant in 1824 and emigrated to Connecticut ; he 
died in Buffalo, N. Y. The merchants purchased 
Beaches stock and continued the publication a few 
months when it stopped. 

Mr. Edmund Ward published **The Bermuda 
Royal Gazette from 1809 to 1816. He was induced 
to come from Halifax and publish this paper in con- 
sequence of a difficulty between Governor Hodgson 
and the people of Bermuda, which produced libel- 
ous attacks upon his government, these libels ap- 
pearing in the only paper published in the island. 
The governor sent to Halifax for a person he wished 
to appoint *' King's Printer," and Mr. Ward had the 
honor of publishing the first *' Royal Gazette.' 
During the administration of Sir James Cockburn, 
he published an article relating to the capture of the 
American frigate *< President," Commodore Deca- 
tur, by the *' Endymion," Captain Hope, in which it 
was stated that the " President" narrowly escaped 
recapture by sixty-eight men that were concealed in 
the sail room. This statement the governor ordered 
Mr. Ward to retract, and he, declining to do so, 
was deprived of his commission as " Kings Printer," 
and he soon after returned to Halifax and published 
a paper there. 

** The Royal Gazette "was first issued in 1828, 
under the name of David Ross Lee, his son, Mr. 
Donald McPhee Lee, on his return from Halifax, 
assumed the management on the issue of the third 
number, and continued it until the time of his death 
in 1883, a practical journalistic experience of over 



152 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED 

fiifty-five years. The publication of the paper was 
continued by his son, Mr. Gregory Vose Lee. 
This is the government paper of Bermuda. 

"The Bermuda Colonist" is published in St. Geor- 
ge's every Wednesday morning. The "Colonist" 
was established in 1866 by Mr. Charles Brady, and 
is nov^ published by Mr. S. Seward Toddings. When 
it was first established it was published bi-weekly, 
but soon after it came into the possession of Mr. 
Toddings it was enlarged and converted into a 
weekly newspaper. One of the principal features 
of the paper is the publication of full reports of the 
Debates of the House of Assembly during the Ses- 
sion of the Legislature. 

"The Bermudian" was first published in 1833 
by Mr. Jenkins who sold out and went to China as 
a missionary. The paper then passed into the 
hands of Mr. Washington, who continued its pub- 
lication until his death in i860. The business was 
then carried on by his widow until 1878, when it 
ceased to exist. 

" The Bermuda" newspaper was established by 
Mr. William Martin in 1845, and in the following 
year Mr. Robert Ward became the publisher of it, and 
it was issued by him until 1857. In 1848 he pub- 
lished an article containing some severe sti'ictures 
on the House of Assembly, which led that body to 
institute a suit for libel against him, and which 
resulted adverse to Mr. Ward, who was sentenced 
to a fine of £50 and costs with imprisonment for 



BERMUDA GUIDE. 153 

some twenty days. Popular feeling was with the 
editor. 

"The Mirror, " a bi-weekly, was conducted by 
Mr. George A. Lee, for a limited period and was a 
creditable production. 

"The Times and Advocate" was established by 
Messrs. Parker & Co., in 1871. ''The Home and 
People's Journal " was started in 1882 by Mr. John 
J. Parker. The two papers became consolidated 
under the name of the '* Bermuda Times, or People's 
Journal," in 1883. 

The "New Era," A. L. Spedon, editor and 
proprietor, was first issued in 1881. It is based on 
strictly liberal and independent principles, and is 
issued every Wednesday noon at Hamilton. 



THE BND. 



INDEX. 



Assembly, House of, 90. 

American House, 7, 

American Consul, 102, 103. 

Agar's Island, 96. 

Agriculture and Commerce. 74, 75. 

Army and Navy, 6, 62. 

Admiral's Residence, Clarence 

Hill, 94. 
American Civil War, its effect, 

42, 58. 

Bailey's Bay, 103. 

Barracks, 71, 72. 

Boarding Houses, 8, 88. 

Blockade Runners, 44. 

Brackish Pond, 123. 

Boaz Island, 130. 

Bicycling in Bermuda, 138-142. 

Bermuda, Description of, i. 

Bermuda, History of, 9-30. 

Bennett, Benjamin, Governor, 29. 

Brunswick House, 8. 

Butler, Governor, 23. 

Brovv^ne, William, Governor, 40- 

42, 114. 
Bruere, Governor, 38, 39. 
Blue Hole, no. 

Cabbage Palm, 124. 
Caldecot, Charles, 19. 
Camber, The, 132. 
Camelo, Ferdinand, 9, 119. 



Castle Harbor, 116. 

Castle Island, 116. 

Causeway, no. 

Caves, 86, S)'], 109. 

Clarence Hill, residence of the 

Admiral, 94. 
Climate, 5, 76, 77. 
Commerce, 74, 75. 
Company, Somer Islands, 18. 
Convicts, 72. 
Cooper's Island, 117. 
Cook, Governor of Rhode Island, 

32. 
Coral Reefs, 'j?,, 79. 
Crawl Point, 103. 
Custom House, 91. 
Customs and Manners, 62. 
Commissioner's House, 131-132, 
Churches, 67, 68, 125, 126, 128, 

129. 

Darrell's Island, 133. 
Description of Bermuda, i. 
Devil's Hole, 103. 
Devonshire Bay, 122. 
Devonshire College, 122. 
Devonshire Point, 122. 
Devonshire Parish Church, 123. 
Dingey Club, 136. 
Dock Yards and Floating Dock, 
72, 7Z- 



IXDEX. 



Ducking Stool, 98. 
Defenses, 6, 65-, 68, 69. 
Discovery nnd Settlement, I, 9, 
10, 1 1. 

Education, 66, 67. 
Elis Harbor, 129. 
Elbow Bay, 80. 

" Fairy Land," 63, 94. 

F>rn Island, 134. 

Flatt's Village, lOi. 

Flatt's Harbor, 102. 

Forts, Albert, Victoria, Catherine, 

and George, 113, 1 14. 
Fire Plant, 125. 
Fortifications, or Defenses, 6, 65, 

68, 69, 113, 114. 
Floating Dock and Dock Yard, 

72, 1Z- 

Fare, 2. 

Gates, Sir Thomas, 13. 
Gallow's Island, 100. 
Geology, 78-87. 
Gibbon's Ray, 100. 
Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, 127. 
Government, 28, 64-66. 
Grassy Bay, 131. 
Grace Island, 133. 
Great Sound, The, 133. 
Gurnet Rock, 116. 
Godet Island, 134. 
Governor, powers, etc., 65. 
Governor's Residence, Mount 
Langton, 91. 

Hamilton, capital, 5, 88-91. 
Hamilton Hotel, 6. 



Hamilton, Henry, Governor, 42. 

Hamilton to St. George's, 97. 

Harrington Sound, 102. 

Hearn Bay, 127. 

History of Bermuda, 9. 

Hog money, 21. 

Hungry Bay, 122. 

Hamilton to Somerset and Ireland 

Island, 125. 
Hotels, 6, 7. 

How to reach Bermuda, 2—4. 
Hospitals, 130. 

Indians, 20, 27, 60, 61. 

Inhabitants, 59. 

Ireland Island, 130. 

Ireland Island by Water, To, 132. 

Islands in the Sound, The, 133. 

King's Castle, 1 16. 

Kendall, Deputy-Governor, 23. 

Lighthouses, 127. 
Long Bird Island, no. 
Longevity, 77, 
Lunatic Asylum, 122. 
Long Island, 134. 

May, Henry, 10, 11. 
Manners and Customs, 62. 
Monticello, 103. 
Massachusetts, 27, 40, 41. 
Mangrove Trees, 96, 125. 
Mangrove Bay, 129. 
Mahogany Tree, loi. 
Middle Road, 122. 
Military and Navy, 68-73. 
Mount Langton, The Governor's 
Residence, 91. 



INDEX. 



Moore, Tom, io8. 
Moonedyne, Steam Yacht, 132. 
Moses Island, 133. 
Model Farm, 120. 
Moore,' Richard, Governor, 18. 
Mullet Bay, iii. 
Marshall Island, 134. 
Masonic Lodges, 143-149. 

Negro, 20, 27, 60. 

Nonsuch Island, 116. 

North Road, 98, 103. 

Norwood, Richard, 19, 94, 122. 

North Rock, 82. 

Naval Cemetery, 130. 

Naval and Military, 68-73, 130- 

Newspapers, 150-153. 

Ordinance Island, 112. 

Paget Parish Church, 125. 

Paw Paw Trees, 20, 96. 

Paynter Vale, 105. • 

Paynter's Hill, 105. 

Pembroke Church, 98. 

Penister's Pond, 118. 

Point Share, 97. 

Port's Island, 133. 

Powder Conspiracy, 31-39. 

Powell, Captain, 20, 21. 

Pirates, 29. 

Press in Bermuda, The, 150-153. 

Princess Hotel, 6. 

Public Buildings, 90. 

Public Library, 91. 

Port Royal Church, 128. 

Paget, Sir Charles, 131. 

Products, 5, 20. 

Population, 60. 



Quebec Steamship Company, 2. 

Reach, The, no. 

Raid, Governor, 91, 92, 121. 

Religion, 63, 67-68. 

Revolution, American, 31, 42, 70. 

Ricket Island, 133. 

Richier, Isaac, Governor, 29. 

Routes, Pleasure, 97, 118. 122, 

124, 132. 
Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, 134, 

135-137- 
Royal Engineer Quarries, 126. 
Royal Naval Hospital, 130. 
Royal Navy, 68-73, ^IP- 
Real Estate, 64. 
Religious Persecutions, 25,26,270 

Sand Hills, 125. 

Sessions House, 90. 

Seymour, Governor, 28. 

Shark's Hole, 107. 

Slaves, 20, 27, 60. 

Smith, Captain John, 24. 4 

Smith's History, 25. 

Smith's Marsh, 121. • 

Smith's Parish Church, 120. 

Somers, Sir George, 13, 14, 114. 

South Road, 118. 

Somerset Island, 128. 

Somerset Parish Church, 129. 

Southampton Island, 116. 

Southampton Parish Church, 

128. 
Spanish Rock, 119. 
Spanish Point, 97. 
St. George's Hotel, 8. 
St. George's, 113. 
St. David's Island, 115. 



INDEX. 



Slcanisliip Companies, 2, 4. 
Stag's Rocks, 97, .103. 
Stock's Point, no. 
Sandy's Parish Church, 129. 
Sheep's Island, 134. 
Settlement and Discovery, i, 9, 

10, II. 
Sand-glaciers, 80. 
Society, 63. 
Sandy's Island, 128. 
Snuff Plant, 125. 

Tucker, Daniel, Governor, 20, 1 29. 
Tucker's Town, 107. 
Turner, Governor, 27. 
Turk's Island, 30. 



Telegraphic Communication, 4. 
Tucker's Island, 133. 

Washington, General, 32, 38. 
Warwick Church, 126. 
Walshingham, 108. 
Wells, The, 99. 
Walshingham Caves, 109. 
Wentworth, Captain, 28. 
Warwick Pond, 126. 
Woodlands, 97. 
Wreck Mill, 129 
Waterford Island, 130. 

Yacht Club, Royal Bermuda, 134, 
135-137- 



Marine Hotel 



. Barbados^ West Indies 




THE finest health resort In the tropics, situated on 
the fairest isle in all the Southern seas, in a 
land of perpetual summer, where frost, fogs, or 
mists are unknown ; the average temperature is 75 
to 80 degrees. 

The Hotel is about two miles from the steamer 
landing, with street car connection. It is built of 
limestone, walls 32 inches thick, building 360 feet 
long, with two wings. It contains 260 apartments. 
The rooms are light and airy and have a splendid 
sea-view. The sea-bathing is the finest in the world, 
the temperature of which is suitable for the most deli- 
cate invalid, also private fresh-water baths, douche and 
shower, in the hotel. 

A fine stable is connected wnth the Hotel. Horses 
for riding and carriag-es furnished at moderate cost. 
TEBMS $2.50 TO $4. PER DA T 
POMEROY HOTEL CO., PROPRIETORS. 
Barbados, West Indies. 

AGENTS : 

QUEBEC S. S. CO., 29 Broadway, N. Y., or 

THOS. COOK & SON, Broadway, New York 

BOOTH S. S. Co., 90 Gold St., N. Y. 



Princess Hotel 

HAMILTON, BERMUDA 

Overlooking Hamilton Harbor 



OPEN DECEMBER TO MAY 

The Princess Hotel has accommodations for four 
hundred guests and is open from December to May. 
Situated on the harbor of Hamihon, directly by the 
water, it has a superb outlook, as well as every con- 
venience for yachting-, canoeing and sea bathing, and 
is but a few minutes' walk from the city shops, 
churches, etc. 

The Princess Hotel is conducted on the American 
Plan and has modern appointments throughout, elec- 
tric lights, private baths, beautiful and spacious pub- 
lic rooms, five hundred feet of piazzas. Recent ad- 
ditions to the equipment include room telephones, a 
fine swimming pool and a grill room where meals are 
served a la carte. Turf tennis courts are on the ho- 
tel grounds and facilities for golf within easy reach; 
also the best livery on the islands. Including saddle 
horses. 

For rooms, rates, etc., apply to 

HOWE & TWOROGER. 
Cable Address : 

"Princess," Bermuda 

A. B. C. Code, 5th Edition. 



QuebecSteamshipCo. 

(Limited.) 

TWIN-SCREW LINE BETWEEN NEW YORK 
AND BERMUDA 

Carrying His Majesty's Mails 

S. S. *'BERMUD1AN" -« 5600 Tons 
S. S. - 6000 Tons 

Magnificent Accommodations 

Wireless Telegraphy, Bilge Keels and all modern ap- 
pliances for the safety and comfort of passengers, 
leave New York for Berumda every Wednesday and 
Saturday from January to June if sufficient induce- 
ments offer. Weekly thereafter. 

Subject to change without notice. 
For Further Information apply to 

QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY, LIMITED. 
Quebec and New York. 

THOMAS COOK & SONS, PASSENGER 

AGENTS, 

245 Broadway, New York. 

A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., AGENTS, 
29 Broadway, New York. 

ARTHUR AHERN, 

Managing Director, Quebec. 



ATLAS SERVICE OF THE 

HAMBURG- AMERICAN LINE 

Services to JAMAICA and the CARIBBEAN 




By the splendid "PRINZ" steamers (6000 tons) sailing weekly 
from New York. 

These vessels offer all the comforts and conveniences of our well 
known trans-Atlantic steamers. They are ideally adapted for this 
service. 

Commodious and homelike staterooms, splendid saloons, spacious 
decks, excellent cuisine. ' 

RATE TO JAMAICA, One way, $45.00. Round trip, $85.50. 

Also tours of 24 and 25 davs' duration and longer, ca'lling at 

JAMAICA. COLON (PANAMA CANAL). SAVANILLA, CARTA- 
GENA, SANTA MARTA, PORT LIMON, COSTA RICA. 

COST l?135 and $140. 

Also Tours of various length, with or without hotel accommoda- 
tions. 



Pleasure Cruises 

During the Winter months to: 

THE WEST INDIES, SPANISH MAIN, PANAMA CANAL, NAS- 
SAU AND BERMUDA, ORIENT, MEDITERRANEAN, AND ADRIA- 
TIC SEAS AND TO SOUTH AMERICA, from 2 weeks to 3 months 
and more, at rates from $5 per day up. 

During the Summer months to: 

NORWAY, the NORTH CAPE, ICELAND, SPITZBERGEN and 
the BALTIC SEA by magnificent Twin Screw Cruising Steam- 
ships. 

Send for beautifully illustrated booklets giving full particulars. 

HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE, 
41-45 Broadway, New York. 
Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, St Louis, San Francisco. 
CAPT. W. P. FORWOOD, Gen'l Agt., Kingston, Jam. 



PICKFORD & BLACK 
STEAMSHIP CO. 

Limited 

Between St. John, N. B., 
Halifax, N. S., 

and 

West India Islands and 
Demerara 

Steamers "OCAMO," "ORURO," "SOBO," "D.V 
IIOAIE'' sail every twelve days for Demerara, calling 
at Bermuda, Barbados and Trinidad and every twenty 
four days for St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Domin- 
ica, St. Lucia and St. Vincent, 

The above trip occupies about thirty-eight days and 
makes a delightful Winter excursion. 



Halifax & West India Steamship Co. 

Steamships '^BOSTON & "AMANDA" 

Leave Halifax, N. S., every two weeks for Santiago, 
Cuba, and Kingston, Jamaica. 

"BOSTON" also calls at Turks Island. 

All information on application to Agents through- 
out the Islands or 

PICKFORD & BLACK 
Managing Owners, Halifax, N. S., 
or Thos. Cook & Sons, 245 Broadway, New York. 



Beautiful 
South America 

Lamport & Holt Line 




S. S. ''Vasari. 



SAILINGS FORTNIGHTLY. 

New York to Babia, Rio de Janeiro, Santos, Monte- 
video and Buenos Aires. 

Steamers Vasari, Verdi, A^oltaire ii,ooo tons each. 

Steamers Byron, Tennvson =;.ooo tons each. 

These steamers are fitted with every Improvement. 
Service and Cuisine unsurpassed. 

Circular tours around South America via East and 
West coast services, Transadine railway and Isthmus 
of Panama. 

For rates, particulars, etc., apply local ticket aeents 
or Busk « Daniels, General Agents, 301 Produce Ex- 
change, New Yoric. 



The Great White Fleet 

of the 

United Fruit Co. 

provides the most luxurious route to Jamaica. 

TEN NEW 5000 TON STEAMSHIPS 

have recently been added to this Company's service. 
Four of these, the "Almirante," ''Santa Marta," ''Met- 
apan," and "Zacapa" sail weekly from New York for 
Port Antonio and Kingston, Jamaica, proceeding from 
there to Colon, Panama and Colombian ports ; the oth- 
er six vessels sail from New Orleans for Colon, Pan- 
ama and principal Central American ports. Accom- 
modations include private suites, staterooms with con- 
necting bath and toilet, broad decks, handsome dinmg 
and social rooms, smoking room with balcony, etc. 

The steamships ''Admiral Dewey," ''Admiral 
"Schley" and "Admiral Farragut" operate regularly 
between Boston, New York and Philadelphia and Port 
Antonio, Jamaica. 

The steamships "Brookline" and "Barnstable" sail 
weekly from Baltimore to Port Antonio. 

Other ships sail weekly from' Port Antonio to 
Charleston, S. C. 

UNITED FRUIT COMPANY, 

17 Battery Place, Mew York, or at above ports. 



THE ROYAL MAIL 



STEAM PACKET COMPANY 

INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER 1839 

NEW YORK WEST INDIES 

SOUTHAMPTON 




FAST MAIL AND PASSENGER SERVICE 

Between NEW YORK and 

Jamaica, Colon, Cartagena, Savanilla, La Guayra, 
Trinidad, Barbados, Cherbourg, and Southampton, con- 
necting at Barbados with Company's Services to Dem- 
erara. Leeward and Windward Islands, etc. 

The Main Line Steamers are of 6,000 tons, with mag- 
nificent passenger accommcdations and fitted with all 
modern conveniences to ensure comfort in the Tropiics. 

Special Winter Tours in the Caribbean; also around 
South America in connection with the R. M. S. P. Brazil 
and Argentine Service. 



THE ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY 

18 MOORQATE STREET, LONDON 



JAriAICA— R. M. S. P., KINGSTON 

BARBADOS— R. M. S. P., BRIDGETOWN 

TRINIDAD— R. M. S. P., PT. OP SPAIN 



NEW YORK, U. S. A. 

SANDERSON & SON, General Agents 

22 STATE STREET 



Hamilton Hotel 



Bermuda 




The Hamilton Hotel, a delightful home to hundreds of Americans 
who go to Bermuda almost every year, Is a substantial modern struc- 
ture built of a native vi^hite stone; its piazzas covered vv^ith brilliant 
flowering- bougainvillier. Its site, on a hill overlooking the Victoria Park 
CR one side and the town harbor and the ocean on the other, is unequ- 
alled. Its capacity, with additions of 1908-09, 600 persons. Guests have 
every comfort to which they are accustomed in America. 

The hotel is lighted by electricity, has steam heat and open fires for 
cool days, has elevators, private baths en suite, as well as ample pub- 
lic baths on each floor. 

Plans for each day's outing are easily made; boats and carriages can 
be arranged for at the desk. A livery with rubber-tired carriages, fine 
horses and trustworthy drivers, being connected with the hotel. Cycl- 
ing is a most popular pastime. There are golf links, also cricket fields 
and tennis courts convenient to the hotel, new tennis courts having 
been laid out for the coming season by Lilywhite, the noted English 
expert. 

An excellent orchestra is a feature for the numerous concerts and 
dances given each week at the hotel. 

From December 1st to May is the regular Winter season, although the 
hotel is ope nthe year round, and those wishing to escape the early win- 
ter are assured of every comfort at all times. Illustrated booklet sent 
upon request. 

Correspondence is solicited and full particulars concerning Bermuda 
cheerfully furnished. 

Address, 



HAMILTON HOTEL CO. 



Cable Address: 

"Hotel, Bermuda 



HAMILTON, BEtRlMTUDA 



Constant Spring Hotel 

KINGSTON, JAMAICA 
Proprietors- ELDER DEMPSTER S CO. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND 



Superbly situated in a Tropical Park. 
Finest Golf Links in West Indies. 

Scenic effect combined with convenience. 

Tennis and Croquet Courts. 

Near Polo ground and Race Course. 

Within walking distance of picturesque hills. 
A half hour's ride from the seaside. 

Continental and Native Chefs 

Cool when it's hot — always enjoyable. 
Perpetual Spring and Summer without discom- 
fort. 

The temperature averages about 75 degrees. 
Swimming Pool for Guests only. 
Spring W' ater at all times. 

All rooms facing Blue Mountain on the North. 

All rooms facing seawards on the South. 

Courtesy, comfort, con\alescence. 

A Colonial Hotel with Metropolitan Service. 

L. SCATTI, General Manager 



THE 

Myrtle Bank 
Hotel 

CONDUCTED ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. 



This new and elegant Hotel will be completed and 
ready to open Feb. ist., 1910. 

It will be the largest and most elegant in tl.e city 
of Kingston, and its grounds are well laid out and tilled 
with beautiful tropical plants. From its position on 
the shore it comanands extensive views of the Harbor 
and Port Royal in the distance, with cool, delightful 
breezes blowing from off the water constantly during 
the hottest part of the day. 

It is provided with all modern conveniences, Electric 
Lights, Fresh Water Bat'hs, Billiard Tables, Fine Bar, 
Reading Room, Ball Room, Livery and other conven- 
iences. 

The tables will be supplied with all the delicacies 
of the season, the rooking is the best on the island and 
the attendance excellent. 

For terms, circulars and any further information ad- 
dress 

AINSLIE & GRABOW CO. 

MANAGERS 
Myrtle Bank Hotel, Kingston, Jamaica 



The Trinidad 
Line of Steamers 

CARRYING THE MAILS BETWEEN NEW 
YORK and GRENADA, TRINADAD, TOBAGO 
AND CIUDAD BOLIVAR. 

The First-CIass FuII-Powered Steamships 

"MARACAS" 3500 Tons 

"GRENADA" 3000 Tons 

"MARAVAL" 3000 Tons 

Having excellent accommodation for passengers, sail 
regular about every 10 days, between New York and 
Grenada and Trinidad, making regular connection in 
Trinidad with steamers for Tobago and Ciudad Bo- 
livar. 

Port of Spain, Trinidad, B. W. I., is a favorite 
resort for tourists or those lequiring to escape the 
rigors of the winter in the U. S. The Queen's Park 
Hotel at Port of Spain is the finest Hotel in the West 
Indies. 

RATES OF PASSAGE 

To Grenada and Trinidad 

Single Fare $50 Return Fare $9250 

These Rates Include Meals and Stateroom Berths 

For further information and dates of sailing apply to 
The Trinidad Shipping and Trading Co., Ltd. 

29 Broadway, New York and Port of Spain, Trinidad, B.W. I. 
MARTIN DEAN & CO., Agents, St. George., Grenada, B.W.I. 



THotel 



PORT-OF-SPAIN 
TRINIDAD, B. W. L 



'npHIS hotel has lately been completed, and it 
-*- is fitted up in the most luxurious style. 
The house is thoroughly equipped with all mod- 
ern conveniences and improvements, including 

Electric Light, Shower, Spray and Plunge 
e^e^ Baths ^^ 



A complete system of sewerage from Hotel to 
Gulf of Paria. Position of Hotel is unequalled, 
being upon the Savannah, facing the Governor's 
residence and the northern range of hills in the 
background. 

Jterme: ifrom $2*50 upwarbe per &ai2* 

For further particulars apply to 

THE MANAGER, 

Queen's Park Hotel, 

Port-of-Spain, Trinidad. 



Spring Hill 
Hotel 

Montego Bay, Jamaica 



The largest, finest and most complete hotel in Mon- 
te,g-o Bay. It is provided with every improvement and 
convenience. The Hotel is situated 300 feet above 
the sea at a convenient distance from- the town, and 
bathing beach. The climate is most comfortable, cool 
in the night, with trade winds to temper the heat of the 
day. The motor launch Gwendoline is available for 
trips around the Bay and Bogue Islands, and Carriage 
and Motor Car for trip about the island. 

Rates are twelve shillings per day. Special rates 
per week or month. For further information apply to 

SPRING HILL HOTEL CO., Ltd,, Proprietor 

R. Vernon, Manager. 
Montego Bay, JAMAICA, B. AV. I. 



"WARD LINE ROUTE 

(New York and Cuba Mail Steamship Co.) 



JJ 



BETWEEN 



NEW YORK :^ NASSAU:^ CUBA :^ MEXICO. 



S.S. MORRO CASTI.E, 
S.S- HAVANA, 
S.S. MONTEREY . 
S.S. VIGII.ANCIA, . 
S.S.ORIZABA, 
S.S. SARATOGA. . 
S.S. SENECA, . 

S.S. CITY 



FLEET 

7,000 Tons. S.S.MEXICO, 



q,667 
4.702 
4,115 
3>497 

2,S20 
2,729 

OF 



S.S. ESPERANZA, 
S.S. SEGURANCA 
S.S. YUCATAN, 
S.S. MATANZAS, 
•• S.S. SANTIAGO, 

S.S. NIAGARA, 
WASIII.NGTON, 2 6S4Tons. 



,667 Tons. 

702 •' 

"5 •' 

.525 " 

094 " 

359 " 

365 " 




Finest and Largest Steamships Sailing from 
New York to other than European Ports. 

REGULAR SAILINGS TO 

NASSAU, 

THE GEM OF THE ANTILLES, 

And to Havana^ SantiagOt Cienfuegos, Cuba ; 

ALSO 

Progreso, Vera Cruz and Tampicot Mexico* 

Descriptive matter, Qiiarterly Sailings, and full particulars 
sent free to any addi-ess. 

JAMES E. WARD & GO., 

General Agents, 
90^96 WALL STREET, NEW YORK CITY. 



To VtsHoi's. 



While Bermuda is a very small place and remotely 
situated, yet in some things purchasers can do better 
here than even in New York, the metropolis of the New 
World. This is owing to the fact that only five per cent, 
duty is charged on all imported goods except liquors and 
tobacco. First-class clothing made to order by experi- 
enced American and English tailors, English dry goods, 
and fine imported liquors can be purchased here for less 
than one-half what the same quality of goods sell for in 
the United States. 

In connection with this work we have given on the 
following pages the addresses of the principal business 
houses in Bermuda, which will prove of value to persons 
visiting the islands. It includes the cards of the lead- 
ing hotels and steamship companies, photographers, and 
dealers in curios and bric-a-brac. 



He. 



=J< 



*TXBIaE OF EN(^tiISM MOJ^EY. 





with 


Relative Values in Dollars and Cents. 




i s 


d. 'doI 


. Cts 


.i: s. 


d. 


Dol. 


Cts. 


£ s. 


d. 


Dol. 


Cts. 


o 


I 


o 


2 


6 





I 


44 


4 





19 


20 


o o 


2 


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4 


7 





I 


68 


5 





24 


00 


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6 


8 





r 


92 


6 





28 


80 


o o 


4 


o 


8 


9 





2 


16 


7 '^ 





33 


60 


o o 


5 


o 


lO 


10 





2 


40 


8 





38 


40 


o 


6 


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1 

12 


n 





2 


64 


9 





43 


20* 


o 


7 


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2 


88 


10 





48 


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o o 


8 


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Lb 


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3 


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11 





52 


80 


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ih 


14 





3 


36 


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1 





57 


60 


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15 





3 


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62 


40 


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22 


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3 


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1 





67 


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4 


08 


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72 


00 


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76 


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4 


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81 


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72 


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86 


40 


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96 


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9 


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91 


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14 


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20 





96 


00 



' " " '3 < 

English money is the currency of the Bermuda Islands, 
although American gold and bank bills are received at 
their full face value at the hotels and principal stores, and 
frequently a premium is paid on same. Drafts and bills 
of exchange can be procured at the Bank of Bermuda 
(see advertisement). 



(ncorporated 1889. 



Cable Address, < 'Banco. 



The Bank of Bermuda, 

(lilMITED). 

BERMUDA. 



Directors. 

W. T. James, President, 

T. J. Pearman, Vice-President, 

J. S. Darrell, M. C. p. 

Hon. J. H. Trimingham, M. C. P., 

W. E. Meyer, 

J. D. C. Darrell, Manager. 



E. E. Walker, 
C. S. Tucker, 
A. W. Bluck, 
J. D. C. Darrell, 



Special Correspondents. 

The London Joint Stock Bank, Lothbury, London 

The Merchants Bank of Halifax, . . Halifax 

The Chase National Bank, . . . New York 

The Canadian Bank of Commerce, . Toronto 

A§:ents for the following: Banking: Houses. 

August Belmont & Co New York 

Thos. Cook & Son and Branches, . . London 
The Cheque Bank '^ " . . , " 

J. P. Morgan & Co., .... New York 

Drexel &: Co., Philadelphia 

The American Express Co., . . New York 

Illinois Trust and Savings Banks, . . Chicago 
Merchants Loan & Trust Co., ... " 

Knauth, Nachod & Kuhne, . . . New York 

KouNTZE Brothers, " 

Ladenburg, Thalman & Co., ..." 

Tradesmen's National Bank, , . Philadelphia 




Triiningliaiii Bros. 

19 & 20 Frcnt St., Hamilton, 

IMPORTERS OF 

English & Foreign 4- 
-^ Dry Goods, &c., &c. 

General Dry Goods Dept., 
House Furnishing '* 
Gent's Furnishing Department, 

Consisting in part of a full assort- 
ment of Cartwright & "Warner's 
Underwear, Welch, Margetson & 
Co.'s Ties, Scarves, Braces, Belts, 
Linen and Silk Handkerchiefsi 
Collars, Cuffs, &c.. Dent's Gloves 
in Kid and Dogskin, Tennis and 
Boating Outfits in variety, Tennis 
and Boating Boots and Shoes in 
Russia, Russet Leather and White 
Buckskin, Umbrellas, Rugs, 
Travelling Shawls, &c. 

Ladies' Department, 

Millinery in all its Branches. 
Laces and Handkerchiefs in Silk 

and Linen. - 
Dent's Gloves in Kid & Dogskin. 
Umbrellas and Parasols^ 
Waterproofs and Mantles. 
Dress Goods in Silk, Wool and 

Cotton. 
Dress Trimmings in great variety. 
Dres^imaking under competent 

management. 



AUBREY J. COX, 
Cadies' and Cbildren's Outftttitid, 

CORNER REID AND BURNABY STREETS, 
HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 

TELEPHONE CALL, NO. 90. P.O. BOX, NO. 146. 

CABLE ADDRESS "aJACE," BERMUDA. 

'%^%^%^-%^ 

Dress Goods, Fancy Goods, Gloves, 
Hosiery, Haberdashery, 

Rain Proof Cloaks, Mackintoshes, 
Umbrellas, Parasols, Golf Capes, 
Coats, Capes, Fashionable Lingerie, 

Berlin and Other Wools and Yarns, Knitting 
and Crochet Cottons and Needles, 



MILLINERY. 

Our Millinery is in chargfe of a talented and accom- 
plished Artiste. 

Latest Parisian and London Styles* 
RIBBONS, FLOWERS, FEATHERS. 



DRESSMAKING 



Gosling Brothers 

Established 1822. 

HAMILTON, ST. GEORGES and SOMERSET, 
BERMUDA. 



Wine ® Aerct)ant5, 

— AND — 

Provision ® Dealers 

MINERAL WATER MANUFACTURERS. 

The Largest Stock in Bermuda of Old Wines, 

Cordials, Brandies, and Malt Liquors. 



Original Manufacturers of 

BERMUDA MILK PUNCH 



Importers of the following choice brands of Champagne: — 
POMMERY &. GRENO. DRY MONOPOLE, 

G. H. MUMM, VEUVE CLICQUOT, PERRIER, 

JOUET &. CO., MOET &. CHANDON. 



GENUINE HAVANA CIGARS. 

Machados Jamaica Cigars. Manila Cheroots. 

Cigarettes. Tobaccos. 



^MEl^icj^N ^ F0n3E, 







COR. OF QUEEN & CHURCH STS., 

^HAMILTON, BERMUDA.* 

A. PASCHAL, . . Proprietor. 



Every Attenton given to Guests. 



BERUDDA . TAILORING . HODSE 

HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 



"\UE take pleasure in calling the attention of our friends 
and the general public to our elegant and carefully 
selected stock of the latest English, Scotch and' 
French Novelties in Woolen Goods, which we 
make up from thirty to fifty per cent, less than the same 
can be procured in the best houses in New York City. 

Having a good staff of American workmen, we guar- 
antee perfect style, fit and workmanship, and respectfully 
request an inspection of our stock. No trouble to show 
goods. We make a specialty of Ladies' Fine Tailoring. 



Yours respectfully, 

AGNEW S. EYE. 

Reference by iiermission to 

A. C. BROOKS, Hamilton Hotel. 

N. S. HO'A'E, Proprietor Princess Hotel. 

Rt. Rev. Bishop LITTLEJOHN (Bishop of Long Island). 

MORGAN C. HAMILTON. 

R. DUNLAP, Hatter, N.Y. 

HOWARD CRAMP, Ship Builder, Philadelphia. 

J. H. STARK, Boston. 

MORGAN C. HAMILTON. 

R. DUNLAP, Hatter, N. Y. 

HOWARD CRAMP, Ship Builder, Philadelphia, 

J. H. STARK, Boston. 



ESTABLISHED IN 1863. 



Thompson Sl Roberts, 

Contractors to Her Majesty's Government. 

(SUCCESSORS TO A. R. THOMPSON). 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN 

Groceries, 

Provisions, 

. . . Flour, 

ENGIilSH, FRENCH, AND AMERICAN CANNED GOODS, 
VEGETABLES, POULTRY AND GAME. 

Furniture of Every Description, 

3, 5 AND 7 QUEEN STREET, 

HAMILTON, BEEMTJDA. 



Agent for R. E. Downing & Co., Foreign 
Express. The only authorized express of the 
Quebec S. S. Co. 

63 and 65 Beaver Street, New York. 



THE TOWER ^ ^ s. nelms. 
Book anb Stationet>2 Store ^ 



Artists' Materials, Art Pottery, Chiuaware, Berlin Wools. 
Novelties and Household Decoratious. Book and Period- 
ical Library. Music and Instruments at Manufacturers' 
Prices. Camp and Steamer Chairs. Trunks, Valises and 
Writing Cases. Orders taken for Copper Plate Printing. 



A^ent for.... 

STARK'S &UIDES TO THE BERMUDAS AND WEST INDIES, 

Bermuda, British Guiana, Bahamas, Jamaica, 
Trinidad, Barbadoes and Caribbee Islands. 

PRICE, $1.50 EACH. 



A. E. BOURINB, 

QUEEN STREET, = HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 



CONFECTIONERY of the finest quality at the lowest 
cash prices. Soda, Tonic and flineral Waters, Stationery, 
Photographic and Fancy Goods of every description. 

BICYCLES- 

A large assortment of Bicycles always on hand. For Sale 
or To Let by the hour, day or week. Bicycles cleaned, crated, 
stored and repaired. 



firs. H. Q. RECHT, 
Pine Art Jewelry, 

. IN QOLD, SILVER, QARNET AND AMBER, 
FINE CARVED CEDAR WOOD. 

H' SOUVENIRS ^ A * SPECIALTY. 4~ 



Church Street, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 

Opposite Hamilton Hotel. 

Formerly at 7 COKGRESS HALL, SARATOGA, K.Y. 

N.E. LUSHER & SUN, 

Photographers and Photo 
Stock Dealers. 

YORK BUILDING STUDIO, 

Queen Street, - HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 

Fine Views, Copying and Magic Lantern 

Slides. Kodaks, Hawkey es. Etc., 

Reloaded. 

FILMS AND PLATES DEVELOPED AND PRINTED. 

DONKEY CARRIAGE AND TROPICAL GROUPS A SPECIALTY. 



Be sure to see our large variety of Bermudiau 
Views before making your selections. 



W. T. JAMES & CO. 

HAMILTON and ST. GEORGES 

SHIP AGENTS & GENERAL 
MEECHANTS 



AGENTS FOR 
Pickford & Black Steamship Co., Limited. 
Halifax & West India Steamship Co., Limited. 
Henry Langridge & Co.'s Direct London-Bermuda 

S. S. Line. 
Hamburg- American Steamship Line. 
Elder Dempster & Co. Steamship Line. 
Orient Steam Navigation Co., Limited, London. 
P. & O. Steamer Navigation Co., Limited, London. 
Munson Steamship Line, New York. 
Guardian Assurance Co., Limited, (Fire), London. 
Mannheim Insurance Co.. (Marine) Germany. 
Western Assurance Co. (Fire), Toronto. Etc., etc. 



LLOYD'S AGENTS. 

W. T. James, Notary Public, Correspondent and 
Representative of 
The Board of L^nderwriter of New YorV. 
Atlantic Mutual Insurance Co. of New York. 
Ignited States Llovds. 
The Boston Board of ^Marine L^nderwriters. Etc. etc. 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL GROCERS, 

Always on hand a large stock of 
American, Canadian and English 
Fine«^t Groceries. 



Cable Address :— ''JAMES," Bermuda. 

Use A. B. C. (5th Edition) Scott's, Watkin's Atlas 

or Leiber Codes. 



Cable Address "Field" 

The Bank of N. L Butterfield & Son, Limited 

BERMUDA 

Established 1853 

DIRECTORS. 
HENRY LOCKWARD, President. 
JAMES A. CONYERS, Vice-President. 
HON. E. C. WILKINSON. 
J. C. WATLINGTON. 
JOHN E. LIGHTBOURN. 
H. A. PITT. 
M. WAINWRIGHT. 
R. A. JAMES. 
H. D. BUTTERFIELD, Manager. 

Special Correspondents 

London Parrs Bank, Ltd. 

New York .... Merchants' Nat'l B'k 

Toronto Dominion Bank 

Halifax, N. S. . . Bank of Nova Scotia 
AGENTS FOR LONDON. 

Baring- Bros. & Co. 

Brown, Shipley & Co. 

Chaplin, Milne, Grenfell & Co. 

AGENTS FOR NEW YORK. 

Brown Bi'os. & Co., and Branch Houses. 

Baring, Magoun & Co. 

Heidelbach, Iskelheimer & Co. 

National Park Bank. 

Laidlaw & Co. 

John Munroe & Co. and Branch Houses. 

Morton Trust Co. 

National Bank of Commerce. 

Mercantile National Bank. 

Colonial Bank. 

AND FOR 

Kidder, Peabody & Co., Boston. 

Bank of Montreal and Branches. 

First National Bank, Chicago. 

American Exchange National Bank, Chicago. 

Bank of California. 

National Bank of St. Joseph. 

Industrial Trust Co.. R. I. 

Bay State Trust Co. 

Bishop & Co., Honolulu. 

Canadian Bank of Commerce, Toronto. 

Bank of Toronto. 

National Bank of Scotland. 

Royal Bank of Scotland. 

And Others. 



Cable Address, <<Liockward," Bermuda. 



LocKWARD & Ingham, 

General Outfittina Establishment. 



Importers of- 



ENGLISH AND 
FOREIGN 

DRY GOODS 



A large and Attractive stock of Goods, of superior 
quality, personally selected each season by a member of 
the firm. 

Special attention is invited to our 

DREg^Mi^I^ipIll and TAILOI(lK Depapfimeiiti^, 

each under the management of very experienced cutters. 



Ladies' Fine Tailoring a Specialty. 

Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda. 



Cable Address — 



"Lockward," Bermuda. 



LOCKWARD & INGHAM, 

General Dry Goofls Mercliants, 

60 & 60>^ FKONT ST., HAMILTON. 




Departments. 

DRESS-MAKING, 
MILLINERY, 

HABERDASHERY, 

(fee, &C., &Q, 



Departments. 
TAILORING, 

Gents'FURNISHINGS 
House Furnishings, 
BOOTS &SHOES. 



The Most Complete Establishment in Bermuda. 

Front street, Hamiltoo, Bermoda. 



Stark's Illustrated Bermuda Guide 

Two hundred pages, profusely illustrated with Maps and Photo- 
Prints, i2mo, $i.6o, postvpaid. 

' A most exhaustive book on Bermuda. Mr. J. H. Stark spent several seasons in 
Bermuda for the express purpose of collecting material for a history and guide-book. 
and nothing is omitted or overlooked which the invalid or traveller for pleasure will 
wish to know." — Boston Transcript. 



"The 'Illustrated Bermuda Guide,' written by Mr. James H. Stark, of this city, 
is the latest book on the Bermuda Islands. It contains twenty-four artistic photo- 
prints, besides several handy maps of the islands, which will be of much convenience 
to the tourist who seeks rest and pleasure in the miniature continent, 700 miles from 
New York. 

" The text of the volume treats of the history, inhabitants, climate, agriculture, 
geologv, government and military and naval establishments of Bermuda describing 
in an entertaining fashion the most noticeable features of the island, and furnishing 
a brief sketch of life in Bermuda from the original settlement until to-day." — Boston 
Herald. 

Stark's History and Guide 

5:^-^ BAHAMA ISLANDS 

Fully illustrated with Maps, Photo-Prmts and Wood-Cuts, 
i2mo, $1.60, post-paid, 

"I have read your Book on the Bahamas with great care and interest, and can 
confidently speak of it as the most trustworthy account of the Colony that has yet 
been published." 

Sir Ambrose Shea. 

Governor of the Bahamas. 



"Your book has exceeded my expectations; you have filled up a gap in the history 
of the English Empire, especially in the history of our colonies, that deserve the 
encomiums of every Englishman, aye, and of every .American who reads your book. 
The colonists of the Bahamas owe you a debt that they can never fully repay." 

G. C. Camplejohn, 
Judge of the Court of Common Pleas, Bahamas. 

Starks History and Guide to Barbados 

And the CARIBBEE ISLANDS 

Two hundred and twenty pages profusely illustrated with 
Maps and Photo-Prints, i2mo, $1.60, post-paid. 

" Mr. James H. Stark visited these islands and derived his information at first 
hand. He has given a brief history of their discovery and settlement, and also an 
account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, which is superior to that of 
any other work on the subject. The book is richly supplied with half-tone illustra- 
tions, which give a capital idea of the buildings, the localities, and the people through- 
out these tropica] islands. 

" The information is practical, and the volume will be highly prized by those who 
have interests in these islands or have occasion to visit them. Mr. Stark has done 
much to lift them into notoriety by his careful, accurate, and instructive work." — 
Boston Herald. 

FOR SALE BY 

James H. Stark, Publisher, 17 Milk St. Boston 

Sampson, Low, Marston & Co., Limited, London 



^''ourisf'js Map 
oj the ^ 

Bermuda Islands. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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015 818 882 A 




QUEBEC STEAMSHIP CO 
S9 SfiOAowAYMwYom. 

*ANO' 

QUEBEC — CANADA, 



